First Post.... Lots of Questions

[huesmatg]

My wife and I are starting to plan a trip this fall for our first journey to the great Big Bend!  I have quite a few questions and thought this might be the best place to post them all at once rather than in each individual board.


1: We are looking to do maybe 4 days, want to fit in a day of hiking, possibly rafting, mountain biking, and if my wife can talk me into it hang gliding.  I know, a busy trip
2: We are the camping type, have no problems with a few nights in a tent but are looking for a campsite that is located near the activities we are looking to do, i wouldn't even mind having to switch campsites in the middle of the trip if ned be.
3: What is the all-star list of sights at the park?  From some of you veterans, I am looking to make up a list of the best places to see in the park, maybe the best trails, the best scenic views, best parts of the Rio.

Any specific information would be much appreciated.  Its hard to look through all of the posts on here especially since some of them are quite dated, since I am 3mos out from the trip, I definitely want to know the things I should look into and the things i really should stay away from, I know there are some bad experiences out there that I personally would like to avoid if possible.


thanks in advance,
matt
       

[Homer67]

I would recommend an overnight near Mule Ears.  The spring is 2 miles down the trail and there are some very nice spots beyond the spring to camp.  Here are a couple of photos:

"The Spot" off the Mule Ears trail

Mule Ears Spot Pano (Medium) by Superhomer670, on Flickr

Mule Ears Spring

Mule Ears Spring by Superhomer670, on Flickr

There are many areas along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive (RMSD) to see.  Santa Elena is at the southern end of the RMSD:

Santa Elena  April 2011 by Superhomer670, on Flickr

No list of major sites in Big Bend would be without the South Rim:

South Rim Pano  Nov 2011 by Superhomer670, on Flickr


Elephant Tusk and Mariscal Mtn from South Rim  Nov 2011 by Superhomer670, on Flickr


Sunset on South Rim  Nov 2011 by Superhomer670, on Flickr

If you have a high-clearance vehicle to get down the River Road East, perhaps a jaunt to the Mariscal Mine is in order:

Another View   Feb 2011 by Superhomer670, on Flickr

There are so many wonderful places to go in the park! 

If you're experienced and want a challenge, perhaps the Outer Mountain Loop (OML) is for you.  Here is a link to a report I did on that hike (there are a number of good reports on this site for the OML):
http://www.bigbendchat.com/portal/forum/your-trip-reports/doing-it/
Here is some NPS info on the OML hike:
http://www.nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/oml-itinerary.htm

http://www.nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/bc_outermountainloop.htm

Others will chime in with a good many other spectacular sites, this short list of suggestions is just a drop in the bucket! Hiking Big Bend by Laurence Parent is a good book to begin with; it lists many trails and offers descriptions and other info.

We will be in the park for 9 days around October 15th, the new moon, so we can better observe/photograph the gorgeous stars Big Bend has to offer!

In case you need it, here is a link to an online map:
http://mapper.acme.com/?ll=29.29778,-103.27663&z=12&t=T
One can choose from a variety of maps there.

There are also sites which will list other vital info, such as sunrise/set. moonrise/set, moon phase, length of day, astrological twilight, etc:
Moon Phase Calendar:
http://www.paulcarlisle.net/mooncalendar/
Sunrise/set, Moonrise/set, Length of day, etc:
http://www.sunrisesunset.com/USA/NationalParks/

Enjoy your trip and post lots of photos when you get back!
Homer

[elhombre]

Here is the best info to start with http://www.bigbendchat.com/portal/forum/your-trip-reports/backpacking-trip-reports-index-2011/

http://www.bigbendchat.com/portal/forum/your-trip-reports/backpacking-trip-reports-index/

Down load a map and see where these places are in the park.  As I always try to express to people heading out there the first time, don't plan out the entire trip before you get there.  Too much to do means you spend too much time in the car driving around.  The place is big and look at each AREA for things you want to do.  Then start with one area and you will be suprised many days you actually (can) spend there.  Add on areas for the next trip down.

For the best ideas, you should state what car you have (4x4) ,and if you have a problem with pooping in a hole and carring out your TP.  These are the biggest limiting factors for most people. 

[kevint]

OK.  I'll start.  First of all, the possibiilities are seemingly endless and each person's interests varies so much it is hard to know what o recommend.


You can do pretty well thinking of the park in three areas.


1) The Chisos includig the basin.
2) The east side extending down to Rio Grand Village.
3) The west side extending own to Castelon and Sana Elena Canyon


Basin
A good centrally located camping location would be in the basin.  Your post doesn't read like you are looking for backpacking locations.  Probably the most popular day hike the park is the Lost Mine Trail acessible from the basin.  Another popular basin hike is the window trail.  At least once during your trip, you want to be in the basin at sunset to view the sunset through the window on the short Window View Trail.  Another popular hike near the basin is the hike in Grapevine Hills to Balanced Rock.


Also near this part of the park is the Panther Junction visitors center. I strongly recommed a stop here after you've been in the park a day or two to take the short trail out front to learn the more common plants in Big Bend.  I recommend making this visit after you've been there long enough to start to wonder what some of the plants are.


East Side
If you are into birds or other critters, any place with water is good.  At Big Bend, if there is water, there will larger trees, primarily cottonwoods.  One of the places you'll see this is at Dugout Wells.  Any place you see a small stand of cottonwoods, there is critter potential.


The hot spring is popular if you want to take a soak.  Boquillas Canyon is the most popular thing on the east side.  At the overlook and in the entrance to the canyon you will see residents form the community of Boquillas stealthily (or not) selling crafts to support their famlies.  You may also run into Singing Victor.  He serenades tourists from the Mexican sideof the river in hopes that you may make some donation.  The Rio Grande nature trail is popular here, expecially around sunset.

West Side
There are numerous opporunities along the Ross Maxwell Scenic drive.  You can see the remains of the Sam Nail ranch and, thanks to the continuous supply of water, you will likely see critters.  Sotol Vista overlook is a must.  There are many trails which others are more qualified to report on.  I most often hear about the trails to Upper and Lower Burro Mesa, Tuff Canyon and the trail to Mule Ears Spring.  The crown Jewel of the west side is Santa Elena Canyon.


If you have a high clearance vehicle, other options open up.  Let us know if you do.


Regarding other specific questions:
Rafting?  I don't hear much about rafting.  The Rio Grande doesn't carry much water these days.  Some people padd upstream in Santal Elena Canyon and float back out.  If water is high, I think there are some rafting options out of Lajitas.


Montain Biking?  Also not talked about much in the National Park however some people do bike on the back coutry roads.  For Mountain Biking, neighboring Big Bend Ranch State Park is better known.  It'll take a couple of hours to get to the entrance of BBRSP from most anywhere in the National Park, longer to get where you can do anything.  There is popular moutain biking trail in the State Park.


Hang Gliding?  Not to my knowledge.  Don't know where you would land without getting torn up from the vegetation.


Campsites?  There are three main campground areas:  The Basin, Rig Grande Village on the east and Cottonwood (near Castelon) on the west.  There are also dispersed campssites along some backcountry roads that don't require high clearance.  No bathrooms though.  Come prepared


I wouldn't worry much about posts being dated.  Time spent doing your own homework won't be wasted.  Then you'll be better equipped to ask the speciific questions that will help you most.


Good luck.  Don't forget to post a trip report after your visit.

[Hoodoo]

1: We are looking to do maybe 4 days, want to fit in a day of hiking, possibly rafting, mountain biking, and if my wife can talk me into it hang gliding.  I know, a busy trip

Rafting opportunities are largely dependent on river flow. If Mexico is releasing water from Luis Leon Reservoir on the Rio Conchos (which joins the Rio Grande at Presidio) the choices are abundant.

The Local Outfitters always seem to find some section of the river to float at all water levels, either by raft or canoe. We were there over spring break and a couple of the outfitters were floating a short section in BBRSP from La Cuesta to Madera Canyon. They were probably floating other sections as well, but you just have to call them and check on what they currently offer based on the river level.

Some of the local outfitters also offer mountian biking, horse back riding, and SUV tours. Haven’t seen or heard of hang gliding but I think at least one outfitter partners with someone who offers an aerial tour.

Not trying to plug the locals here, if you have your own gear that is a whole nother deal.

Don

[Geezer]

Air temperature is always something to consider when planning a trip to BB. You say you are three months out, which sounds like an October trip. You don't say where you live, but I'll guess at Texas, in which case you have some experience with hot air (of all kinds). Anyhow, even a Texan wants to avoid baking in the desert sun as much as possible. Even in October, BB will likely be very hot during the day, except in the Chisos Mtns. Look at the average monthly temperature chart on the Park web site. It's for Panther Junction, at about 3,500' elevation. The Chisos Basin is at about 5,400, which will be some cooler. But even camping in the Basin, shade is a consideration. Try to find a camp site with some trees and/or a shelter over the table. From the Basin campground there are several great hikes: Lost Mine Tr., Window Tr., Emory Peak, South Rim, etc. All with great views. Some more strenuous than others. Study the Park site's info on the hikes carefully. L. Parent's book is also helpful, though it reads like chopped hay.

There's a restaurant and a convenience store in the Basin, both of which can be quite handy. Also real restrooms in the campground.

Other areas of the Park are most enjoyable November through March -- when it's much cooler. Don't have to worry much about rain -- October is the dry season in the desert. A tarp would be cooler than a tent. Won't be much in the way of bugs. But snakes will still be out.

A stab at help. Tell us more and we can be more helpful.

Geezer

[fartymarty]

What is the all-star list of sights at the park?  From some of you veterans, I am looking to make up a list of the best places to see in the park, maybe the best trails, the best scenic views, best parts of the Rio.

I suggest that you go here and decide for yourself what it is that you want to see. I've found late October to be some of the best weather of the season but there are those that prefer November even though the days get shorter. There is this link to the park's newspaper which has what to see recommendations based on your length of stay (page 8 ).

I've never seen any hang gliding in the area and I'm not sure if it's even allowed (If it is, I suggest you try to land on a road. ). There might be glider soaring over in Marfa.

[badknees]

Don't have to worry much about rain -- October is the dry season in the desert. A tarp would be cooler than a tent. Won't be much in the way of bugs. But snakes will still be out.

Geezer

Although you don't have too worry about the rain too much in the desert, October, on average, is actually one of the rainiest months. Link below is the Panther Junction yearly averages from the NPS web.

http://home.nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/weather_averages.htm

[catz]

Although four days may sound like a lot of time, it will only allow you to scratch the surface.  The park is huge and the hiking opportunities alone are many.

I suggest you camp at the Basin campground.  It is centrally located and there are tables, bathrooms, and many of the sites have shade.

I also suggest you spend at least one day hiking in the Chisos.  In one day you can do both the Window Trail and the Lost Mine trail.  OR, if you are just a bit more ambitious and in reasonable shape, a hike to the South Rim.  This is probably the premiere hike in the park, but it will take all day to do it. 

Next, to get a taste of the desert, I suggest you spend one day drving the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, along the west side of the Chisos.  There are numerous day hiking possibilities, ranging from very easy to quite time-consuming and more difficult.  My personal favorites include Mule Ears Spring (moderate), top of Burro Mesa pouroff (moderate), Crystal Falls (relativly easy), Santa Elena Canyon (easy, as long as the river is low)and, most ambitiously, hikng in both directions from Homer Wilson Ranch.  On this latter, I especially like heading right at the ranch house, go along the Dodson Trail for about three miles, or until it tops out.  You can't possibly hike all of these in just one day, so I recommend selecting the ones that appeal to you most and doing them.  Don't try and overdo it and be aware of the temps.  There is little shade on these trails.

Thirdly, I recommend heading east on the main park road, towards Rio Grande Village.  The hike into Boquillas Canyon is well worth doing and the Hot Springs should not be missed, especially after a log day of hiking.  If your vehicle is reasonably sturdy, Pine Canyon is a great hike, one of the best in the park, in my opinion.  I have twice driven to the trilhead in a regular sedan, but depending on road conditions, this could be problematic.  Four whell drive is not needed, but high clearance would help. 

That leaves one day for your river excursion or dirt biking, or going on some of the hikes you weren't able to get to before.   

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.             

[huesmatg]

ok, lots of good info, thanks!

First things first, we have lived in Houston for 4 years and come by way of Tulsa, OK.  WE will be taking our 2007 4Runner 4X4, its stock so not a high riding truck by any means but can sure cut up a dirt road.  I have absolutely no problem with digging a hole to crap in, pretty sure the wife would get by as well.

We are currently looking at the weekend of 10/20ish, we will be celebrating our 5th wedding anniversery.  We used to tent camp and scuba at local lakes when we lived in OK on pretty much a biweekly basis and have hit a couple of local houston parkes for camping just a few times over the past few years.

We are really looking forward to the trip, I will try and answer a few more of your questions and pose a few of my own later this evening, i just wanted to give a quick update and thank you!

on the hang gliding, my wife saw it on the net but apparently it was for another Big Bend..... I'm klinda glad it's not an option

[elhombre]

You should be able to get anywhere in the park you want to go.  I would get a campsite out on Glenn Springs road.  All the ones on Pine Canyon rd are great.  Rice tank is nice too.  It will put you about 20  minutes from pavement so you can get anywhere within an hour or so.  I would definately make a day for driving out to the Mariscal Mine and walking around Glenn Springs site.  In 4 days, I would keep myself to the basin and Rio grande village area (east side) of the park.  Boquillas canyon, earnest tinaja, rio grande village, old Ore rd, hot springs and basin hikes could easily take up 4 days of pure desert hiking for a first timer.   Leave the West side until next time.

[kevint]

OK.  That is some helpful information Heusmatg.  Your 4 runner should get you some more places, the Black Gap Road is generally considered to require more clearance so you should probably avoid that one.
 
The main thing I'd add to my previous list would be Ernst Tinaja.  It shouldn't take you more than 30 minutes to get there from the southern end of the Old Ore Road.  I'll recommend driving the full extent of the Old Ore for one of your future trips although it could comprise the fourth day of the rough itinerary that catz recommended.  It's a long half-day trip although it gets you up close and personal with a lot of the park in a reasonable amount of time.
 
If your wife has pooped in a hole before, you're good.  Make sure you ask her in advance.  If she hasn't, a porta potti might be a good addition to your kit if you are planning to camp at a back country road site.
 
But honestly, given that:
 

• You're not visiting at a crowded time
• You want good access to the whole park
• It's your first visit
• You'll likely be spending a day in the basin anyway

I think the basin campground would be a good choice and includes
 
 

• bathrooms and some shaded picnic tables
• a restaurant nearby - decent but variable
• potentially a little warmer at night I hear

All that said, if you want to be alone, the backcountry road sites are awesome.  It's hard to be more alone than we were at our campsite in this "where's Kevin" picture:
 

 
It's a little eerie to be someplace you could possibly scream at the top of your lungs or even honk your horn and not be heard by anyone.
 
As you've probably already seen, it's a long day's drive from Houston.  Start early so even if you have some unplanned event, you'll still make it before Panther Junction closes.  I like to drive through Del Rio better than taking I-10 past San Antonio.  If you do, gas up and make any needed phone calls in Del Rio.  Gas stations and Verizon service are few and far between after Del Rio.  The drive is a pretty drive and I think it is faster than taking the interstate.
 
The Eagle's Nest in Sanderson is a good place to take a break and they serve some good burgers.
 
A nice change of pace for the park is a visit to the Terlingua "Ghost Town."  The Chisos Mining Co store is interesting and there are a couple of fun restaurants in the area.
 
Wow.  I'm gettin' jealous.  Have fun.

[dougstar]

Tons of great info for you in all the posts. 

My 2 cents are...

Being a 5th anniversary trip I would say that Big Bend takes a few days to fall in love with. 
I took my wife there years ago and her first reaction was that it is desolate.  It is and it isnt.  Finding the gems in the park is part of the fun. Be aware of this and give it time to sink in.  You and she will fall in love with it.

One earlier post said similar things,  but my suggestion would be...
1)   Lost Mine Trail in the Chisos..  Not too hard (4.8mi rnd trip) but the premier Chisos Mountain hike.   Be sure to sit on the couch rock at the top.
2) Camp in the Chisos campground.  If not camping try to get an Emory Peak lodge.  Much more secluded and romantic than the others.
2) Drive to Santa Elena Canyon and take the short hike into the canyon.  A side trip to lower burro mesa pouroff during the trip gives a great intro to the desert.  Do it earlier in the day.
3) If you want to get more exercise hike to the top of Emory Peak.  If you wife is afraid of heights forget it!   The scramble at the end is scary.    You can also do South Rim the same day but it is 15miles and a full hard day.
4) Have dinner at the lodge during sunset.   Especially after a good day of hiking.   Yes,  they have beer!

Lastly, I would say to read "Beneath the Window" by Patricia Wilson Clothier.   It is a great book about early ranch life in the Chisos.  If you like it you may consider doing the Cattail Falls hike which starts out at the area of the Homestead descibed in the book.   You could combine this hike with the trip to Santa Elena.   

Have Fun!

[kevint]

Beneath the Window is good after you visit too. I liked reading it with a knowledge of the area.

[catz]

Next, to get a taste of the desert, I suggest you spend one day drving the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, along the west side of the Chisos.  There are numerous day hiking possibilities. My personal favorites include...Crystal Falls...   

It's not "Crystal Falls", it's Cattail Falls.  Sorry.