A solo trip account Cottonwood to RGV

[missourimike]

Last year with the help of bbchat I was able to do a solo trip on the Rio Grande.  I figured my account should be posted on this section.

Well this trip was more rewarding than I expected.  Making it to the dinner in the 12/27/06 was a bonus treat, seeing faces in 3D and sharing.  I owe a thanks to JR (texasrounder) for the very valuable portage, but he also allowed me to camp at his site that first night.  The local camping sites were full.  The only available camping was long trip out on the backcountry camping.

My canoe trip started at Cottonwood Camp ground.  There the river access was okay, and I especially like the more secure parking at that spot. The local campground host was very cordial. 

That first day the wind was at my face but the river current was winning the battle.  My distance traveled that first day was lower than I expected, maybe 10 miles.  The start time was later than planned but I was now on river time. 


I spoke a bit of gringo Spanish to the local Mexican family viewing the river near St. Vincent’s.


That first night on the river there was rain and wind but everything was fine. 

Next day was good, rain again that second night. 

Floating the non-canyon areas was good.  Love the pace of the river and each bend is something new.  There was usually interesting sedimentary geology along the way.  The park official that signed my permit told me it would long and lonely.  He was right, but that was something I enjoyed.  Not a gringo in sight for four days; only time to paddle and reflect.


One good suggestion is look back the the chisos mtns.  The view changes with the river and you have to look back to see it most of the time.

The third night, just past Talley, there was some excitement.  The sun had set and was had just finished eating.  I was sitting by my Coleman burner for heat and my small flashlight lantern was on.  Then I hear a good size rock plunge into the water.  I was on the Tx side on a beach area, with my canoe close to the river.  Then another stone hits the water but more upstream.  Then over the next five minutes ten more stones, each a bit farther upstream.  I was scared.  These stones were coming from the Mex side and I speculated that they were looking for a shallow spot to cross.  But the stones splashes were moving upstream maybe they had left?  Five more minutes pass, no stones, maybe it will all be fine.  Then another, close to my canoe.  That was it, I was going to float more down stream and hide. I did not want trouble and knew I could not sleep with the speculation running in my head. Luckily the moon was 3 days from being full and provided enough illumination.  The map showed I had a little distance to go before the Mariscal Canyon but there were some good turns to navigate.  I just did not want to get into the canyon at night and I want to hide. 

Soon I found somewhere to hide all my gear and kept quiet.  Maybe I should have spoke a bit of gringo spanish.  Still I did not want any trouble.  At that moment in time I was scared but a year later I think it added to the trip.

I put in before the sun rose and got out of there in case the fellows were looking for me.

The Mariscal canyon was great.  I wish the afternoon sun was at my back but the NPS stated they did not want me camping from Solis to Rio Grande Village.  So that day I had some miles to go. 

Over that long day I saw two horse riding Mexicans and some trout lines.  At one point I heard a car’s stereo blasting near the river.  I should have approached it and asked, Donde’ esta el Chicago?  Or tu tengas un bud light?

By evening I made it to Gravel Pit, with two nice campers, Molly and Brook.  They allowed me to stay near the river and took me to a Hot springs for a New Years Eve cleansing.  At Woodson, Talley and Solis and La Clocha I did not see any campers.  It was nice to share some company, especially after the Talley spook session.

I had made it down river sooner than planed and JR did look for me sooner than we planned.  That next day I took it slow throw Hot Springs canoe and then hide my canoe under some river cane around RGV.  I made it up to RGV store around 12:30 but missed JR by a 1/2 hour.  I stayed up there for whole afternoon calling many friends and my wife.  An older fellow from Alpine delighted me with some stories and I eventually made friends with Frank.  Frank currently lives in Chicago but was born in on a French Caribbean island.  His perspective and sharing was really a joy.  The two of us tried to get upstream from RGV and see the Hot Springs Canyon.  My dreams go going upstream hit the reality and that was not easy.  In Missouri Rivers, it is easier to go upstream, using the eddy currents and occasionally pulling the canoe. I have a sail for my canoe and if the wind is right, upstream is a breeze.  But the Rio Grande was consistent with it downstream flow, surprisingly on both sides.  Anyway with some struggle, Frank and I made to some of the Hot Springs Canyon but I was due back at the rendezvous time.

Wildlife

During the river trip, I saw a dozen or so wild horses.

A Peregrine Falcon whizzed by me during the Mariscal Canyon.  The sound was similar to a remote control jet.  I first initial thought was, “who has a R/C down here.”  Then I looked back to see the falcon rise vertically over 50 ft with out flapping a wing.

Wet life, very few signs of anything during the first day or so.  Then more painted turtles.  The only signs of fish were some jumping near Gravel Pit area and I did see what looked like a gar or a carp.

There was a delight of seeing two tarantulas on the road at separate times.  The first was near a curve so I could not stay long.  The second was found near an area I could pull over, so Wendy and I assisted in crossing the road.  When using my hat to scare it along, it found my hat more of a comfortable refuge.   

Conclusions

Upstream from most points would have been an EXERCISE in futility, unless the wind was always close to my back.  Not recommended.  Finding friends at or near Big Bend was easier than before.  The chat site was very valuable and opening my personally to others sure helps. 
Also learned don’t climb a steep slope where you plan to sleep.  The first two nights I was able to climb above the river edge and make a Verizon cell phone call.

While camping at Gravel Pit a kayaker, Sean, was putting in.  I sure like talking and had a nice conversation with him.  I offered to move his car down to RGV and loved assisting him is a short river trip. 

Thank you all.

JR
Shan
Ara
Debbie
Goldielocks (I think its Lisa)
Molly and Brook
Frank
Older man from Alpine
Sean

[RichardM]

Sounds like you had a great trip.  Got any pics? 

[missourimike]

Here are some pics.

Mariscal Canyon, mexicana commerce selling crystals (I believe Flourite), Chisos Mtns from the South, myself at Johnson's ranch I believe.

[xseption]

very nice! glad you made it back alive and well. What type of craft were you using on your trip? It does not look like a kayak.

~ edd

[missourimike]

Here is a closer pic of my canoe.  The avitar is from my first canoe trip in Jan 06 in the Santa Elena Canyon.   It was a fun boomerang trip for my wife and I.

1st pic, Cottonwood Launch

The next two are Hot Springs Canyon.

Mike

[xseption]

Some very unique photos ... I may have do some canoing! How long have you been at it?

~ edd

[deadlizard]

Thanks for the photos Mike.  Always looking for new ones.

[missourimike]

I love Big Bend Area.  Been there five or so times, but I am hooked on the river.  I canoe a lot in Missouri for the last ten years but I don't think I can go to BB and not get on the river. 


The rental fees down there are much higher than I am used too.  Bringing your own is worth the hassle.

Mike

[xseption]

I love Big Bend Area.  Been there five or so times, but I am hooked on the river.  I canoe a lot in Missouri for the last ten years but I don't think I can go to BB and not get on the river. 


The rental fees down there are much higher than I am used too.  Bringing your own is worth the hassle.

Mike

Thanks for the advice!

~ edd

[Hoodoo]

I love Big Bend Area.  Been there five or so times, but I am hooked on the river.  I canoe a lot in Missouri for the last ten years but I don't think I can go to BB and not get on the river.

Thanks for the trip report and photos MissouriMike. I think I saw your post last year before I registered I too am a river rat and am hooked on the river. I have been floating the Rio, since the early 80's. I have never considered going to the Bend without getting on the river, that is until I found this site, thanks to BBC I'm beginning to put together a wish list of other interests.

I did a canoe day trip on the Meremac River just west of St. Louis a few years back, enjoyed it as well. 

 

[missourimike]

Thanks Hoodoo,

Missouri Rivers are usually gravel bottom and low turbidity.


Do you know what section you floated?


Depending on what section of the Meramec, the quality and quietness can vary.  In that same area is a smaller more recommended float.  On the map its called the Courtois Creek but the locals call it "coat-away."  No motor boats allowed and better/cleaner fishing.

In the south of Missouri I recommend the Eleven Point of Jack's Fork Rivers.

Mike

[aggiehiker]

I, too, am an avid river runner as well as hiker. I go at least once a year and kayak boquillas or Santa Elena. I've always wanted to do the section you did and now am planning on doing it at Spring Break.

[Hoodoo]

Do you know what section you floated?

Depending on what section of the Meramec, the quality and quietness can vary.  In that same area is a smaller more recommended float.  On the map its called the Courtois Creek but the locals call it "coat-away."  No motor boats allowed and better/cleaner fishing.

It was my son’s first river trip 8 years ago when he was 7. I think we put in at Sappington Bridge near Sullivan and only floated 5 miles to Meremac State Park. There were some cabins/docks built along the river's edge in some places.

We usually make at least one trip each year to the St. Louis area to visit some of the out-laws, err I mean in-laws. The Curtois creek looks to be a little farther south, I will have to see if anyone is interested in another float trip. 

In the south of Missouri I recommend the Eleven Point of Jack's Fork Rivers.

Eleven Point of Jack's Fork Rivers looks like it would have to be a trip all by itself.

Thanks for the info.

[missourimike]

Hey Hoodoo,

Well the Courtois access is 1/2 hour farther than Sullivan, but worth the time.

Michael

[Ray52]

Great report Mike.  Any plans for a return trip?  I've got boats and would be interested in joining you.  I've canoed on the Current and the Jack's Fork.  Missouri has lots of opportunities.