Newbie's First Trip - Needs Advice

[East Texan]

Hi all! This is a great chat room and I appreciate all the information contained.  I have had a dream to get to BB for a photo shoot.  I have never been there and would like some advice as to what my best bets would be.  I plan to go from Austin sometimes in late January.  Unfortunately I will only be able to spend a couple of days there and would like to maximize my time while there.  The main purpose is to get some great photos of that wonderful country.  Any advice would be welcomed.  If you are interested in seeing any of my East Texas photos (Caddo Lake) they are at http://www.auderer.org

Thanks in advance.

[Roy]

The park is so big and varied that there's no way to get a real understanding of it in 2 days.  On the other hand, there's so much great stuff, you can't help but get some great pics.
Basically,  I'd treat this as a scouting trip.  Drive the paved roads;  Boquillas Canyon and Rio Grande Village on the east, Santa Elena on the southwest;  through maverick badlands to Study Butte on the northwest, up to the Basin in the mountains,  and don't ignore the north road between Persimmon Gap and Panther Junction, too many people just want to get to the visitors center or the mountains and drive right on through.
I'd take a couple of short hikes.  Lost Mine trail to the view point at Juniper Canyon;  this will give you a feel for the mountains.  For the desert, maybe walk a ways out toward Dog Canyon, or the first part of the Chimneys Trail.  Along the Rio, I'd walk the  nature trail at the Rio Grande Village camp ground. 
That's plenty to fill up two days.  Maybe look at some of the photos in that forum, or visit David's interactive panmoramas at Virtual Big Bend (click the banner at the top of the page), and find something specific to ask about.

[East Texan]

Thanks Roy,
I know that this is a "scouting trip" just to get the feel of the area.  I have read much about the drive from Presidio to Laquitas.  This is an Itinerary I thought of tonight.... but of course I'm just dreaming right now....

How about:
Day 1               
Leave Austin   6:00 AM            
Arrive Marfa   2:00 PM            
Explore Marfa and Area               
Leave Marfa   5:00 PM            
Arrive Presidio   6:00 PM      Spend night in Presidio      
Day 2               
Leave Presidio   6:00 AM            
Spend day in BBRSP               
Arrive Study Butte   6:00 PM      Spend night in Study Butte      
Day 3               
Spend day in BiBe               
Arrive in Marathon   7:00 PM      Spend night in Marathon      
Day 4               
Leave Marathon   7:00 AM            
Marathon to Del Rio   10:00 AM            
Del Rio to SA   2:00 PM            
SA to Austin   4:00 PM            


Does that make sense or am I trying to do too much in my alloted time?

I know it's a whrilwind tour but I'm just trying to get the feel of the area so that I can say " Hey I want to spend more time there, and there" for the next trip.

[okiehiker]

Spend day in BBRSP and
Spend day in BiBe is like saying ...

Spend day in Texas
Spend day  in New York

These are extremely large parks

If you want to do some photography you should carefully plan where you will be at sunrise and sunset on those two days and what sort of features you want to shoot.  There are high mountains, river canyons, badlands, historic features. There will be some wildflowers in January, but few and not very notable.

There are thousands of photos posted here.  Look around and develop an idea of what you want to shoot.

[jeffblaylock]

What are you interested in photographing?

[STARLITDARKNESS3]

Welcome aboard...  I think Okie, Jeff and Roy are correct, if you share some more info they and others are a wonderful source of information for you.  What are you looking to photograph?  What vehicle are you driving (car vs SUV)?  Oh, and for those more knowledgeable individuals on photography, what kind of equipment might you be using?  BIBE is full of opportunities but with limited time you have to plan carefully.   I have made (let me think) 15 or so trips now, each one I come back with many photos and I havent even begun to capture a fracture of the beauty of the park.  Enjoy, and Merry Christmas. 

[Roy]

First, take some time on these sites if you haven't done so already.  The official sites for BBNP and BBRSP:
http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/publications/parkguide/rgn_bb_010.phtml
http://www.nps.gov/bibe/
With the route you've laid out, you'll only have time for driving and snap shots, but for a scouting trip it might work.
Personally, I think you'd be better off doing one park or the other, maybe BBNP this trip.  Come back to spend some time in BBNP and leave one day to scout BBSRP and the road to Presidio. Then schedule a trip for that area.
There's also a lot of very cool stuff you can see/do on private lands around the parks and on the river, especially if you sign on for a tour with one of he outfitters in Study Butte, etc. 
The range of possiblites is huge;  best to experience it yourself, reading about it just doesn't do it justice.

[East Texan]

Wow! You guys are awesome.  I never expected to get so many replies so soon. I took a virtual tour of BiBi using Google Earth and indeed I see how vast the area is.  I'm already re-thinking my trip.  I'll be driving my Dodge Dakota Pick-up and will be alone.  I photograph with a Canon Digital SLR - telephoto and wide angle lens. I do my own printing - color and B&W - usually 13X19 prints which I show and sell in a local art gallery here.

Initially I want to do a photo shoot for a series I'm trying to put together called "East meets West - Texas Style" to show the differences found in our great state.  I have a good collection of prints of Caddo Lake with it's swampy. moss covered cypress groves, lily pads, and lotus blossoms.  For Bibi, I'm looking for some big sky shots, vistas, and desert scenes.  I am guessing that almost anywhere there will be a photo op.   I have been in the Eastern Sierras and Death Valley where the same holds true.

OK you have convinced me that I'm trying to cram too much in the initial itenery.  So, I think I'll spend two days in Bibi.  Roy's suggestions seem to be a good start for me.

I don't plan to camp on this trip, so here are some questions:

1. Would Study Butte (Chisos Mining Co. Motel) be a good base camp?
    (The wife is not with me so all I need is a bed and shower)
2. I have to maximize my "good light" time and be at the right place for sunrise and sunset.  Any suggestions?
3. Oh yes, any cell phone service in Study Butte? (Will have to report in to the wife occasionally) 
4. I'm not interested in flowers but would Jan or Feb be good times to see lots of cloud formations and red sunrises and sunsets? We've had some great sunsets here in East Texas this month but when I point my camera to the horizon, all I get are pine trees! 

No matter where I end up, I know I will not be dissappointed.  I can see that you guys have been bitten by the BIBI BUG and I'm sure I will too.

Next best thing to being there is talking to others about it.

Thanks so much for such good advice.

[jeffblaylock]

1. Would Study Butte (Chisos Mining Co. Motel) be a good base camp?
    (The wife is not with me so all I need is a bed and shower)
2. I have to maximize my "good light" time and be at the right place for sunrise and sunset.  Any suggestions?
3. Oh yes, any cell phone service in Study Butte? (Will have to report in to the wife occasionally)  icon_biggrin
4. I'm not interested in flowers but would Jan or Feb be good times to see lots of cloud formations and red sunrises and sunsets? We've had some great sunsets here in East Texas this month but when I point my camera to the horizon, all I get are pine trees!

1. Sure - the food and night life is definitely better there than up in the Basin. The Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive on the park's west side will give you many interesting vantage points and features to photograph.
2. You can't go wrong almost anywhere in the park for either. This time of year, I'd recommend Grapevine Hills for a sunset -- lots of red rocks and a beautiful rock window -- or Sotol Vista. Up in the Basin, sunset through the Window is always beautiful, although you'll have to find a spot north of the Window View trail to see the sun itself set. Not sure when you're going, but if it's a full moon, definitely hike out to the Chimneys (2.5 miles or so of fairly level walking) and watch it rise over the Chisos.



3. Doubtful. Get an old-fashioned calling card and find a landline phone.
4. Clouds are hit and miss. In winter, the really really high cirrus clouds can be beautiful before sunrise, if they're there. In the afternoons, clouds usually indicate a cold front has come through, in which case you may not be seeing a sunset.

[Roy]

Get going at least an hour before sunrise;  check the park's Daily Report for the time.  If you stay in Study Butte, you're going to have some driving to do to catch sunrises and that good early morning light.  I like sunrises on the east side of the park;  the sun coming up over the eastern mountains can be spectacular;  may be able to do this from the spot where the Basin Road meets 118, or near the Visitor's Center at Panther Junction;  or drive a little further down the road towards, Rio Grande Village.  Another great early morning shot is Santa Elena Canyon, the early morning light off the cliff faces is beautiful; note that it's on the west side of the park so you can't do both theses things the same day.  Or maybe drive a ways out the Paint Gap Road or Grapevine Hills Road;  you'll  get a panorama of the north face of the Chisos with the sun illuminating the east side, etc.
Susets as Jeff mentioned, plus a couple I like.  The parking area at the Maverick entrance gives you good light off the west face of Tule Mountain at sunset, and you can get some spectacular shots from the nature trail at Rio Grande Village looking west along the river or back to the southeast with the light off the Sierra del Carmens;  again opposite sides of the park.

During the day, I'd still recommend a walk up Lost Mine Peak trail.  Very good intro to the mountains.  You'll see plenty of desert from the roads, but someday you need to spend some time walking it.
So little time, so much park.....

[Boojum1]

You could get good contrast with a comparison of east v. west riparian habitats, without the complete contrast of water v. no water of desert v. wetland.  Caddo Lake is pretty cool, but rather boring botanically due to the Bald Cypress dominant semi-monoculture.  Of course, the Rio Grande has its own problems with invasive species.  Then there are the obvious river v. lake issues.  Regardless, I'm sure BiBe will provide you with ample inspiration.  Going from east Texas to west is like going from 2 dimensions to 3, in my opinion, due to the dominance of the sky.  All the best for your explorations and art.

edit to add:  You might want to make contingency arrangements for just one more day.    Big Bend is a difficult place to leave. 

[East Texan]

With more study and all of you guys good advice... here's my revised itenery:

From:   To:   Miles   Hours   Time:
Austin Leave at 6:00 am   Marathon   464   7   1:00 PM

Marathon   Panther Junction   68   2.5   3:30 PM

Panther Junction   Maverick Junction   26   1.5   4:30 PM
   Get Sunset Shots         
Maverick Junction    Study Butte   5      
            
Day 2            
Study Butte   Sunrise at Santa Elena          
   Mule Ears Overlook         
   Short Hike on Chimmeys Tr.         
   Solto Vista Overlook         
   Hike some of Lost Mine Trail         
   Spend time in the Basin         
   Sunset shot at The Windows         
            
Day 3            
Study Butte   Sunrise at Panther Junction         
   Boquillas Overlook         
   Rio Grand Overlook         
   Sunset at Rio Grand Nature Trail      
            
Day 4            
Everything I missed on Day 2 and 3              
            
Day 5            
Study Butte   Austin via Hwy 90         


Just a few more questions:

1. Is the Old Maverick from Maverick Junction to Santa Elena Canyon a wise choice to travel before sunrise in my pickup?   

2. How long would it take me to get from Study Butte to Rio Grande Village?

[RichardM]

1.  Old Maverick can be very bumpy.  You won't be able to go very fast without losing some fillings in your teeth.  It'd probably be faster to take the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive.

2. Google Maps says it's about 44 miles from Study Butte to Rio Grande Village.  I'd allow over an hour.

Remember to obey the park speed limits.  Not just to avoid tickets, but to protect the wildlife.

[jeffblaylock]

Hike some of Lost Mine Trail

At the 1.0-mile mark, there is a wonderful vista down Juniper Canyon from a high saddle. The East Rim and the Basin peaks loom to the right, and the crown of Casa Grande looks tantalizing close (It isn't).

I would move this hike to the morning of your second day, after the sunrise shots. The drive down to Rio Grande Village is not as spectacular as the Ross Maxwell Drive, and there's less in terms of short trails to do. You might also consider hiking from Rio Grande Village toward Hot Springs Canyon -- a nice, generally untrammeled path.

1. Is the Old Maverick from Maverick Junction to Santa Elena Canyon a wise choice to travel before sunrise in my pickup?

Check with the rangers as to its condition. It is generally wide and drivable by passenger vehicles.

2. How long would it take me to get from Study Butte to Rio Grande Village?

Been a long time since I last did it, but I reckon 90 minutes.

[Roy]

That looks a lot better.
Check with the Rangers about Old Maverick Road when you get there.  They've been listing it as 4WD only lately;  had a lot of rain earlier this year and messed it up pretty bad.  Study Butte to RGV is about an hour, if you stick to the posted speed limit-45mph, maybe allow an extra 20 minutes.  Be prepared to alter your agenda as conditions dictate, and be prepared for anything from 20 to 90 degrees.  Post pics and a trip report when you get back. Enjoy