OK, I got the truck fixed. So now I’m going to complete my trip. See:
http://www.bigbendchat.com/portal/forum/your-trip-reports/trip-report-how-4-days-in-bibe-turned-into-24-hours-t5258.0.htmlMonday, Feb. 25, 2008. I had the truck packed on the previous day and left Longview at 5:00 am to get an early start on the long drive along I-20 to Monahans. A rather boring drive but the little lady (I call her Vaya) on my GPS said that the northern route was shorter by 100 miles. I was anxious to get there ASAP. When I reached Abilene, the wind was howling out of the north with strong gusts. I had to dodge the tumble weed all the way to Monahans. I reached Monahans (513 miles) at 1:00 pm and decided to take a stop to see the sand hills. When I paid my $2.00 to get into the park, I told the ranger that I hoped the wind had not blown away all the sand. He laughed and said that the sand never stopped coming. By then it was about 83 degrees with strong winds. I drove to the dunes and saw several trailer campers parked. They must have just needed a place to stop. It was no day to be running around the dunes with the strong winds. Since I was there I wanted to get a few pictures of the dunes and caught a few good shots. One of the tallest dunes was streaming sand from the top as the wind blew across it. There were some nice clouds in the sky and my wide-angle lens caught them. I know you are not supposed to take anything from the parks, but I must admit that when I left I had about two cups of sand in my shoes. Too lazy to stop and shake them out, I managed to drive on to Bibe with the sand between my toes.
I headed south to Ft. Stockton and on to Marathon. The first adrenaline rush came as I topped a hill before Marathon and saw Santiago Peak looming to the south. The first sign that I was close! I topped off the tank at Marathon at $3.37/gal. and headed to Persimmon Pass. It was 4:05 pm when I entered the park and 93 degrees. About a dozen javelinas greeted me along Dagger Flats. They were slowly crossing the road and had no regard for cars as they knew this was their territory.
I stopped at PJ visitor center (still under construction) and got a permit for camping at Pine Canyon 1. I thought this might be a sheltered site from the wind that was still pretty strong out of the north. WRONG! I drove up to the camp site and checked it out. I was not ready to set up camp as I wanted to get a good sunset shot. I came back out of the canyon and drove to the western side of the Chisos. There were a few clouds in the sky and sure enough I got a nice red sunset over Terlingua.
I then drove back to PC-1 and set up my tent in the dark. The wind was still blowing and I was concerned about my tent. It was whipping around pretty good in the gusts. But now I was committed, so I set out the lawn chair and watched the stars. The clouds had disappeared and the stars were magnificent.
At about 10:30 PM the moon began to rise over the Serra del Carmen.
What a sight. I watched for a while and took a few pictures. At about 11:00 pm I crawled into the sleeping bag and listened to the tent moan as the gusts came. I’m glad that I had brought some 9” steel pegs to hold it down. The little plastic jobbers would not have held. I had a fitful sleep because of the wind and at about 3:00 am I awoke to the smell of burning brush. The air was strong with the smell. I looked out and the moon and stars had disappeared. Everything was overcast in smoke.
The wind still howled even stronger. It was time to collapse the tent and spend the rest of the night in the truck. Not the best arrangement but after 12 hours of driving, I had no trouble sleeping there. The wind rocked the truck as I dozed off.
On day two awoke at about 7:00 am to a smoke filled sky and the smell of burning vegetation. I wonder what was happening. Since the wind was still blowing strong, I folded up my tent and decided to have breakfast in the Basin. As I drove there I stopped for a few pictures of the surreal mountains covered in smoke.
On the basin road up I stopped and caught the sun sending rays of light thru the smoke over the mountains.
When I arrived at the lodge I found out that a huge fire covering 200,000 acres near Odessa was the cause of all the smoke. I decided to stay low and hike Cattail Falls and Grapevine hills.
By the time I got to Sam Nail Ranch to turn off to Cattail, the smoke had moved on into Mexico and the air was clearing at Bibe. Thank goodness. I took the easy stroll down to Cattail Falls and found only one couple there having lunch. I went on to the edge of the falls and took some pictures.
The area was covered with Maidenhair Fern and Columbine but no blooms yet. It seems so strange to see the lush green of the area surrounded by the desert. It was very much worth the trip to see this beauty.
Now I set out for Grapevine Hills. The temperature was in the 70’s so a desert hike was comfortable. The road to the trailhead was very good. I passed the new landfill for the park along the way. It is fenced off to keep the wildlife out but the crows have decided to call it home. A red tailed hawk glided overhead and circled for awhile. I stopped to try to get a good shot of him but he was too far off. I got to the trailhead to see only one car there. The hikers were returning so I had Grapevine to myself. The guidebook rates this trail as easy but I must say that the last ¼ mile was not what I would call easy. Wow, this area must be a geologist’s dream. What interesting rock formations surrounded the area.
I’ve got to read more about this area to learn what caused those weird rocks to form. The balanced rock was still balanced. Nobody had pushed it over yet so I took the obligatory pictures of it and the Chisos through it.
One thing I had forgot to pack was lip balm. The low humidity and winds had done a number on my lips. I made a mental note to put this item on my packing list for future trips.
After a fitful night in the wind I decided that I wanted shelter so I went to PJ and cancelled my second night at PC-1. I would be a wimp and stay at Rio Grande Village.
I drove down there and got a nice tent site - #23. It was in the no-generator zone and was complete surrounded by trees and brush. I had a nice cocoon in which to set up my camp. The tent was set up and made ready for bed. I had a quick snack and walked out to the nature trail to catch the sunset. I was a little late and not impressed with sunset. No clouds to light up the sky. Back to my tent I made some hot chocolate and watched the stars. I did not see any meteorites but did catch one satellite crossing the star field.
I could hear the wind howling out of the canyon but it was all overhead and my little cocoon was snug with hardly a breeze. It had been a nice day with only about a high of 70. The night would be in the 30’s but I was prepared and got to sleep around 8:30. I had a restful night and didn’t awake until daylight woke me at 7:00 am. The campgrounds were crowded (not full) but very quite. It was almost as if I were alone.
Day three broke and I was happy to see that the wind had died down. I drove up to the basin for a big breakfast and to get the camera batteries re-charged. Today was perfect for hiking the Lost Mine Trail. No wind and still a cool 60 degrees. When I got to the trailhead I got the LAST parking place. This would be a group hike! I made it alone to the first mile. There I met a lady that was getting ready to go back down. We took each other’s picture (for the record). A roadrunner was the only wild life I saw, except for a few teen-age kids later on. The roadrunner was so tame he came to within a few feet of me with total distain. As if I were going to get his bugs and lizards that he was greedily devouring. I stuck to my granola bar and water. I took a few pictures of him and the vista and then started up the next mile to the top.
Those switchbacks were a chore for this old guy and I was glad I had my hiking pole. I started wishing that I had not brought so much camera equipment as my backpack seemed to get heavier the longer I climbed up. I had brought my digital SLR along with two additional lenses. That’s the price a photographer has to pay. At least I opted not to carry my tripod up there. Good choice.
When I got to the top and recovered my breath, downing a bottle of water, I realized that it was all worth the effort. What a spectacular view.
The smoke had cleared out and it seemed that you could see forever. I probably spent an hour at the top taking pictures, peering out in awe, and talking to another hiker. We discussed Hallie Stillwell’s book and how people back then were sure tough hombres to be able to live out here with the limited resources that they had then. I think our collective genes have gotten softer since then.
It was an easy 2-1/4 miles back down. I made it to the truck and headed out to Ross Maxwell just north of Sam Nail Ranch to watch the sun wash over the Chisos. I stopped at PJ for gas. The attendant asked me why I had chosen his store to get gas. I replied that I thought they had the best price in the area- $3.50/gal. He laughed.
I had wanted a shot of Casa Grande through the Window with the sun lighting up the colors of the mountains. Got it!
I stayed around until twilight and decided that after the hike up Lost Mine I needed some muscle relaxant. I was within a few miles of Terlingua so a visit to the Starlight Bar and Café was in order. I had a gin and tonic and a big ol’ hamburger. That tasted good. On the long, dark drive back to RGV I saw two coyotes outside the park near Study Butte. Then inside the park, I spotted a grey fox, several jack rabbits and two javelinas. No bears, no lions! Camp was already set up and I climbed into the sack around 9:30 to watch the stars through the tent windows. I was tired and this night brought a restful sleep. So restful I did not awake until 8:00 am to the sounds of other campers milling around their sites.
The only thing left on my “to-do” list was a visit to Boquillas Canyon. This wouldn’t take long and I decided that I would have time to make the canyon and then leave the park for a drive along the river road to Presidio. I broke camp and took off to Boquillas Canyon. Maybe it was the morning light (sunset light would have been better) but I was not as impressed with Boquillas Canyon as I was with St. Elena. I had been there on the last trip at sunrise. The Mexicans had laid out the walking sticks and wire scorpions on the trail for sale. The singing Mexican was already at work across the river with his voice echoing through the canyon. Four men had left the parking lot just ahead of me. They were carrying big back packs and tripods. I thought, “These must be some serious photographers.” As it turned out they were artists. As I caught up to them on the river they had set up their tripods and canvases to begin painting the scenery of the canyon. Hmm, I think photography is easier. I wandered around the canyon and listened to the echoing songs of the Mexican across the river. By now it was 10:00 am and time to say good-by to Bibe.
I hiked back to the truck, put in my CD of “Out of Africa” and drove to Maverick Junction.
It was a good trip and I had completed my itinerary. I had been told that the river drive to Presidio was a very scenic drive and worth the extra effort. Well, I must say it was scenic but the Bibe bug had bitten me. Nothing was better than what I had seen in Bibe. From Presidio, I went to Marfa and on to Ft. Davis. I-20 is even more boring than I-10 and I opted to take I-10. This would get me to Austin in time to see the last quarter of the Spurs beating the Mavericks. GO SPURS! I would also get another visit with my granddaughter; a nice bonus for the trip. Friday afternoon I left Austin and headed home. Arrived at 5:00 PM – 1800 miles round trip.
Things I took but did not need: rain pancho
Things I needed but did not take: lip balm
Things I'm glad I took: 9" steel tent pegs
