I took this trip on May 3rd 2008. A few members of BIBE Chat asked if I would post a version of my report here.
it took me awhile to get it together, but here it is.
I chose to hike during the heat of the day, approximately 2:00 pm to 6:00 pm. The trailhead for the Mesa De Anguila is easy to locate.
Simply drive from the Panther Junction Visitor Center, west to Study Butte, following th signs along the way, and the turn on 170, SSW towards Lajitas. When you arrive in Lajitas you will see a sign directing you to turn left to the trailhead. This turn will take you into one of the residential areas being developed in the area. The road forks and you need to take the right fork.
The trailhead will be on your left hand side.
Not surprisingly, I had the trailhead all to myself. I would be alone on the Mesa, and that was the point of this trip.
I popped the trunk and began sorting thru my gear to make any last minute changes. I shed a small item or two and headed out on the trail.
I was packed for two nights on the Mesa, but was unsure if I would spend that long. The purpose of the hike was to venture onto the Mesa for some exploration, expereince desert hiking solo, and do so during one of BIBE's hotter months of the year. As it turned out, the day I hiked in was unseasonably cool, with the high in Lajitas hovering near 90. Regardless, I had headed out on the hike with full respect for the Mesa and with the utmost humility.
The Mesa de Anguila trail starts out flat and well cairned taking you through an arroyo crossing that is a general pain as you sink and slog through its gravel bed.The "Saddle" lies before you across the vast, flat, desert plain. On your way to the Saddle you follow cairns that weave in and out of yuccas, creosotes, junipers, and more. The ground is dry, dusty, hard, and hot.
The trail up the saddle is hard and rugged. solid rock lined with scree, it is hard on the feet. I made it up fairly quickly, but even so would stop to catch my breath and take in the views behind me towards Lajitas and the trailhead below.
When you crest the Saddle you are greeted by stunning views to your south of Mexico, and the Rio Grande snaking through a maze of Mesas.In the distance you will see your next goal peaking over the miles of rolling desert terrain, La Mariposa.
The trail is well cairned and varied in its makeup. You will find yourself on hard packed dried ground covered in dust and scree at one point and then suddenly on solid slab, polished and potmarked with holes for potential tinajas.
I hiked in a few miles before stopping to take a break, eat a bit, and get out of the sun.
My break was not a long one but I was glad I took it when I did. During this portion of the day this was one of the few spots along the "trail proper" that I saw any opportunity to get out of the sun without having to fully pitch my tarp.
In almost any other season you could count on a decent chance of finding water in tinajas along the way, but at this time of year, especially in this rather dry year, I had gone in knowing water would be non-existent on the Mesa. Even if I did find a tinaja with water, my goal was to get to the river for my water supply and save any water in tinajas for the wildlife. The trail goes back and forth between rolling desert hills, wide flat expanses suitable for campsites, and arroyos and potmarked slab. All are accompanied by an array of desert vegetation. When you reach the first junction, you will find it clearly defined with a tall cairn and lined with rocks on either side and direction. You are faced with a choice of continuing towards Canyon Flag, La Mariposa, and the Entrance camp at the inner Saint Elena canyon, or heading towards the river, the False Sentinel, and Metates Camp. On this day I chose to continue heading due East towards the Entrance Camp.
I continued towards Tinaja Blanca slowly gaining elevation until I could see a rise before me and blue sky well beyond.
Then the Mesa opened up before me, the Mesa proper and its sheer cliff to my north/left, and the expanse below, my path to the river and the Entrance camp. I started down the rough and now less defined trail to my right and descended towards the desert floor, turning my back on the trail at the junction that heads up the Mesa and towards Tinaja Luan. It is through this area that you might find it the most difficult to follow the trail. There are a number of game trails.
(More details on this at
http://www.thehikersforum.com/trip/view_trip.php?tripid=290%20&%20mode=view )
The lower you descend, the more impressive the Mesa wall becomes.
The trail that leads to the river and the Entrance Camp is actually not much of a trail. It is more or less a series of cairns that lead the way. More like mountian climbing above tree line than trail hiking.
At times the easiest course of action is to look for the hoof prints and horse dung and follow them.
A number of game trails cross through this area and if you aren't keeping a good eye out for the cairns you might end up off trail Be careful.
As your work your way around the backside of La Mariposa the desert before you is dotted with yucca, creosote, prickly pear, and hoof prints. Placed amongst these, the occasional cairn, your ever silent guide pointing you in the correct direction. You are now leaving the Tinaja Blanca, Canyon Flag, and the upper Mesa behind you to the north. Even so, there are more spectacular sights to see, including an unnamed and spectaular Tinaja that would be easy to confuse as Blanca if you weren't paying attention.
(that picture can be seen here :
http://www.thehikersforum.com/gallery/image_comment.php?galid=1308%20&%20mode=view )
Eventually you will have a small canyon below you on your left. To your right a wall rises above you as you walk a scree strewn ledge and navigate your way around a point. I finished the curve on the ledge and saw my next cairn down below me. it led through som bushes and into an obvious wash. The soft gravel and sand based arroyo floor gave under my feet. You can go left or right from here. The correct direction to the river is left.
My arrival at the river was aknowledged by cattle on both sides of the border. Those on the Texas side were vocal in their resentment that I had disturbed their quite haven. Though a few stuck around for a while, it was only a matter of time before they crossed the river and eventually disappeared to the south. I treated the Rio Grande water, ate a strange array of food, took some pics of the sunset over the river and then lay in my bivy and gazed upon the countless stars in the sky as I listened to the relaxing sound of the rushing water of the river in the distance.
By 9:00pm, I was fast asleep.
I awoke early the next morning, had some breakfast and began reversing my route, working my way back around La Mariposa, towards Tinaja Blanca and the junction. At the junction for the Metates camp turn off, I headed south southwest towards the river. I stood above Tinaja Rana and then worked my way down and around it.
This trail to the Metates camp is hard rock and dirt strewn with scree of all sizes. It would be very easy for one to turn an ankle here. As you continue down the pounding trail you parallel Tinaja Rana's arroyo in the canyon far below.I reached the point I was hoping to. From here I could see well into Mexico. This was enough for this day. I turned back, headed towards the junction and started for the trailhead. There was so much more to see on The Mesa and I had only experienced a small portion of it. I would plan to return again someday. Hopefully many times over.
There is a more detailed report with more images and info located on The Hikers Forum at the link below:
http://www.thehikersforum.com/trip/view_trip.php?tripid=290%20&%20mode=view
