I traveled to Arizona last week hoping to obtain the necessary permits for a 3 day/2 night hike from the south rim to the bottom of the canyon and back. I visited friends near Phoenix for a couple of days, then left early Monday morning for the 250 mile drive to the park. After paying my entrance fee I went directly to the backcountry information office shortly before noon. I inquired about the availability of permits for Bright Angel and Indian Garden campgrounds and was told that nothing would be available until Wednesday night, and only then for the earliest arrivals seeking permits. I was given a wait list number of 5 and told to return on Tuesday morning at 8 AM.
I left the office and walked approximately 3/4 mile to the south rim for my first view of the canyon from closer than 35,000 feet. The skies were clear, blue and the view from a spot near the Bright Angel trailhead was breathtaking. With several hours of daylight left and a daypack heavy with cameras I started down the trail taking lots of pictures and visiting with other dayhikers and backpackers. I descended as far as the 3 mile resthouse before turning around for a tiring, painful hike back to the rim. My left knee was screaming and would have shot me if it had a gun, but I eventually limped back to the top, went to my car and exited the park to find a motel room in Tusayan for Monday and Tuesday nights. I was stunned when I heard the room rates at the HI Express, but I needed to get off my feet and hoped for a restful night's sleep.
I suffer from insomnia most of the time, and especially when traveling, so I tossed and turned all night and didn't need the requested wake up call to get out of bed. Sure enough, I was the first arrival at the locked doors of the Backcountry Info Office at 6:30 with 90 minutes to wait. Closer to 8, other would be hikers began to arrive and we gathered outside the building waiting for the doors to open. The staff appeared promptly at 8, let us in the building, and gave a brief orientation talk to the group including the information that numbers 1 thru 4 would likely get permits and that the rest of us could then get a lower number if we wanted to try again tomorrow. It was very discouraging news, but I still felt lucky for some reason. That feeling was confirmed when they called for #1 and then #2 with no response. The holders of numbers 3 & 4 were also solo hikers and like me, left the building in a few minutes with the coveted permit and a huge smile. For the remainder of the day I rode the free shuttles and walked portions of the Rim Trail. From there I could see the South Kaibab trail on a very exposed ridge jutting into the canyon
and from another spot there were views of the Bright Angel trail
I went back to my room early in the evening to fine tune my pack and still hoping for some much needed rest. My plan was to be at the trailhead at first light on Wednesday, and everything was pointing in that direction until I removed the hydration bladder from my pack to fill it with water and found the hose rotted and snapped in two. The General Store in the park carries anything you need to backpack, and the prices aren't terribly inflated, but it doesn't open until 8 AM so my early start wasn't going to happen. Another fitful night had me waiting in the parking lot a full hour before the store opened and as soon as it did, I rushed to the back and purchased a new 2 liter bladder. I readied my pack in the parking lot of the Backcountry Office, weighed it (40#) on their hanging scale, and caught the shuttle to the trailhead. At 9:30 on a brisk, breezy Wednesday morning I started my hike to the bottom. There was plenty of evidence of recent mule traffic and the uppermost sections were shaded and comfortably cool, but a rapid descent led to an exposed ridge, in full sunlight, and with views to die for.
I was joined on the upper section by a German couple I'd met on Monday's dayhike and bumped into again just below the trailhead. Ollie and Claudia were great companions and the hours hiking with them before they had to turn back were the highlight of my 5 days in Grand Canyon.
It was extremely windy, and sometimes hard to hear each other, but we managed to communicate fairly well as Ollie spoke excellent English. We reached Skeleton Point where a series of switchbacks descend to the Tonto Plateau.
Soon we had our first sighting of the Colorado from the trail.
We passed the halfway point to Phantom Ranch before reaching the Tip Off where my friends had to start their climb back to the trailhead.
From this point, the trail descends rapidly to the river below. The steep descent took its toll on my knees and toes, and also on several others as I passed a few groups before reaching the footbridge.
A little further down the waters of Bright Angel Creek could be seen emptying into the river.
And soon the welcome relief of level footing as I set foot on the suspension bridge to cross the Colorado.
The campground was only a short distance farther down the trail.
I chose a nice, shaded site next to the rushing creek with a view (and later I discovered, also the aroma) of the mule corral. I had already unloaded my pack, rested for a while, and eaten supper when I started to pitch my tent and discovered that my stakes were no match for the cement like ground beneath me, but after a struggle, I had it standing and ready for a potentially stormy night.
With that, I went to bed, and I will now as well. Will conclude my report tomorrow. Good Night
