white mountain wilderness NM

[championbaum]

    I got back Sunday night from a trip to the White mountain wilderness area in NM with my lady friend Thuy. It was a blast. Definately the best walk this spring/ summer so far. We got there thursday night and fished Bonito lake, where despite the trout jumping non stop out of the water, and the eight year old kid catching fish after fish, i failed to catch one. Granted i didn't have my pole or the right rig for trout but whatever, I still got out fished by an eight year old. We ate some skillet dinner we picked up at the ruidoso wal mart by the lake and camped out not far from the lake. Thuy saw some elk in the parking lot, but i was down by the lake. we crashed out pretty early to get an early start the next day.

    We woke up at 5:30 am the next morning (funny because i struggle to get up before 8 to get to work at... um , beautiful weather, cool and crisp. We started on roadamaker trail (i think) from near bonito lake to connect to the crest trail, it was about 3 miles but would allow for us to walk a loop and avoid hitch hiking or getting a shuttle. No permits, no fees. wonderful. The trail was beautiful, creek crossings, water running for the majority of this initial trail, a canopy of green foilage, and a steep rugged trail climbing 3500 feet in 3 miles.



We made pretty good time to the crest trail junction, but the higher we climbed the slower we went. When we were going uphill, above 10,000 feet my heart felt like it was beating like a humingbird's, i could feel it pounding on my rib cage, trying to break out and get some air itself. It was great.



The weather was wonderful, but we weren't covering as much ground as i would have liked to, and i was trying to avoid camping out above 10000 feet, above treeline because i knew there was a storm coming in overnight, a thunderstorm. This, i did not mention to Thuy, this was here first backpacking trip and i didn't want to freak her out. The elevation was making our uphill trekking very slow. After we ate dinner we were low on water, and tired. You could see the rain clouds surrounding us, but the wind was blowing them away from us so i decided we might be ok in a small bunch of trees we passed around 10000 ft, about an hour before sunset.





    We set up camp and everything ws great, made coffee on the campfire coals, and fell asleep. At about 2 am, i would guess I woke up because I felt the wind shift, blowing through the only space we weren't protected by the trees. I could see the moon shining brightly, and below the moon i could see all the clouds that had blown past us throughout the day that had gathered and waited for the wind to change in their favor so they could ambush us while we slept. They were climbing over the ridge like a huge hand trying to grasp the moon itself. Within 30 seconds of me looking out of my sleeping bag, the clouds had completely shut out the moon's bright illumination. It was completely black, and the temperature dropped 15 degrees, in a matter of minutes. I jumped out and lowered the tarp in case the wind tried to blow rain into our sanctuary. I was freezing, and couldn't see a thing but managed to get it reconfigured adequately enough and dove back into my bag. If thuy woke up during any of this she did not make me aware, but tehn again she couldn't hear what was keeping me awake, my mind racing frantically, awaiting lightning.

    I don't know alot about lightning, but i do know it is not a good idea to be above the treeline, in a lightning storm. The wind was blowing at least 25 mph for the rest of the night, and after a half hour i willed myself to get at least a few hours of sleep.

[championbaum]

    The weather was so bad for the rest of the night i would wake up every 30 minutes to make sure we hadn't blown away, or electricuted. Luckily there was no lightning, only distant thunder, but i felt extremely uncomfortable and got up to pack my stuff back up as the sun began rising. I coaxed Thuy to do the same, assuring her that the weather would be better as we descended in elevation. The wind made it difficult to do anything, but we packed up without losing anything. As the morning brightened up here is what we saw as we started on the trail....



   We found a spot out of the wind to eat breakfast and escape the cold bite of the wind. As we started on the trail again, and were struggling with each step, a herd of eld effortlessly bound up the mountainside with such ease and grace I had no choice but to acknowledge my inferiority in their habitat. I was a guest in their home. I was grateful.



    At this point, being above the treeline, we were practically out of water, and passed a few driy springs, which was a bit troubling. I had no idea about the water conditions but decided to chance it and not fill up our water when we had a chance the day before. But we came to a seep and were able to fill up. The trail passed above the seep, but i guess a recent mud slide or something had made it a commical sight. You walk along the trail, then there is a 15-20 foot dropp approximately 50 ft across, and the trail continues on the other side as if you could walk right across the void.



We made our way around it easily enough, with enough water to get us through lunch. The weather began clearing up, and although the wind persisted, the clouds, moisture, and gloom gave way.



   I assumed we could easily find the springs that were on the map when we got to Spring point, but it is a bit more difficult to find a spring in an area choked with vegitation compared to finding a spring in Big Bend. In hindsight i should have jumped off the crest trail and followed a trail that bypassed spring point and crossed 2 springs and a creek, butit was fun searching for little bonito spring, which was dry, and the cabin spring, which was also dry.

    We ended up eating lunch next to the dry cabin spring, amidst hummingbirds hovering within feet of us. Bright turquoise with maroon chests zooming back and forth with endless energy. They loved their home. Thuy and i had a great lunch, it was one of the most enjoyable lunches i have ever had.

    The one spring we opted not to look for ended up having water, enough to feed a creek that another gentleman happened to cross. Thomas emerged from the fog, " Have you seen a weather report, is this the Crest Trail?" I said "Yes a few days ago,no it is up that way a bit, we are looking for some water." He explained how he crossed the aformentioned creek but did not quite know how he happened to get on that trail. He was a funny guy, 65 years old and increadibly friendly. He offered us some water, but we decided to make it to the next spring, we had about a liter each.

    Thomas had been on the crest trail for about a week, it was his birthday present. You could tell he was oldschool, his pack was oldschool, his flannel said "mountainman." We crossed paths several times throughout the day.

[championbaum]

    We didn't make as good of time as i would have liked to, so we decided to take the turkey creek trail back to the road, and hike the road back to our car. We passed argentina springs which was full of tulips, actually the entire trail was full of tulips, millions of them, thousands in bloom.



    We found a nice camp site out of the wind in turkey canyon, and relaxed for the evening. we pigged out and goofed around for the evening and fell asleep. I did not want to leave the next morning, the trip went way too fast.

    The hike down the road back to the car was over as quickly as it started, and we were heading home. I was ready to quit my job and stay there for the summer. i actually thought about it, not passingly it was a serious consideration walking that road, even there getting ready to get in the car. But i am a wimp and now i am back at work wishing i was still there. Wishing I had a cabin on spring point, with a pet bear. Here are some random pictures.



here is thuy on a ridge...

[championbaum]

This trip was great, we took naps in meadows above the treeline, saw very few people, and had could have had a snowball fight if we wanted to.

Thanks for going with me Thuy, i had a great time. Hopefully we can do it again!

[mule ears]

Sounded like a nice short trip, glad you didn't get fried in the lightning, almost did that myself a few years ago, scary!

        Thomas had been on the crest trail for about a week,

How long is the crest trail?

[RichardM]

   Thomas had been on the crest trail for about a week,

How long is the crest trail?

The 21-mile-long Crest Trail follows the ridgeline along the crest of the White Mountains. Another 30 miles of trails rated as easy to strenuous branch off from this one or connect to it somewhere along the length of its journey. The solitude and the views are well worth the effort. Water can be found in most areas just by looking a bit.

Used to have some friends that had a cabin in Ruidosa....too bad they sold it. Nice area for a getaway, albeit a bit long of a drive from my house...

[homerboy2u]

A great trip report,Championbaum.Your pictures are extra ordinary,the vegetation is spectacular and the wildlife amazing. Thank you.

[championbaum]

Sounded like a nice short trip, glad you didn't get fried in the lightning, almost did that myself a few years ago, scary!

        Thomas had been on the crest trail for about a week,

How long is the crest trail?

as richard said, about 21 miles, but you cane make a 30 mile loop throwing a few logging roads and other trails in. plus there are many other trails you could take, and cross country route finding would be a challenge to even the best with a map and compass, but a fun challenge. good summer destination, nice and cool. the white mountain wilderness surpassed all my expectations for sure.

[Burn Ban]

i have also hiked in this area.  it is fantastic and i can't wait to return.

in case anyone is curious, a dip in bonito lake and your testicles will emerge with icicles attached.

[dkerr24]

Thanks for the trip report and pics.  I've been trying to find a place to go hiking after Memorial Day, and I think the White Mountains would be a great choice.  Getting too hot to try anything in BIBE until the fall.

Never been to Ruidoso before, according to googlemaps it is about 565 miles from OKC, which is about the same distance as Big Bend.

[chisos muse]

i have also hiked in this area.  it is fantastic and i can't wait to return.

in case anyone is curious, a dip in bonito lake and your testicles will emerge with icicles attached.

OK I'm gonna try that! 

Championbaum.....very nice indeed! I was planning to go there this week but you went for me instead!  It looks lovely and hopefully I'll make it there in the late summer.

[dkerr24]

I do have a couple of questions.... is the road from Hwy 37 to Bonito Lake paved?  My vehicle isn't capable of anything requiring high clearance or 4x4.

I don't need any permits to camp along the Crest Trail? 

[championbaum]

No permits. The road from 37 is paved a little past the lake, then turns to dirt, but the dirt road is managable in any car for a approximately 4 miles, then gets a little rough around the bonto creek trail (i think), or where there is a stable the dirt road gets rough.

If you would like to start on the north side of the trail, which i have heard is easier because you start at a higher elevation, there is a parking area on the dirt road (107) where you could park and hike up the dirt road to the crest trail head. There is a sign that says crest trail 3 miles or so. You could also drive to the trailhead although i don't know how good that road is.

The roads are marked pretty well, with signs pointing to each trailhead, and signs at each trailhead. i am going to try and go back the weekend after next.

[mountaindocdanny]

Thanks for the trip report. The Sacramentos are a beautiful range. For those thinking of heading that way my favorite way to ascend is via Southfork Canyon (Trail 19). It has a great perennial creeks that even has some trout in it. It also isn't as steep as Rodamaker Canyon. The trailhead is accessed at the Southfork CG.

Championbuam, the wildflowers you saw were most likely Rocky Mountain irises. There are huge fields of those up there and they tend to bloom this time of year.

While true treeline is not reached in the Sacramentos there are some spectacular mountain meadows up along the crest. A fun trip to a truly high mountain is an ascent of Sierra Blanca, just south of the wilderness on the Mescalero Reservation. My favorite way to approach this is to start at Southfork TH and head up. This gives you a 4,000 ft. climb and makes you feel as though you are even higher than you are.

There are no permits required for the Lincoln National Forest, but right now there is a fire ban. I have included links to...

Lincoln National Forest
http://www.fs.fed.us/r3/lincoln/

White Mountain Wilderness Trail map
http://www.fs.fed.us/r3/lincoln/recreation/wildernessfiles/white_mtn.pdf

Summit Post Link for Sierra Blanca
http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/151784/sierra-blanca.html

[Burn Ban]

i second mdd's advertisemsnt of the southfork trail.  if the false summits don't discourage you too much, the summit feel at the end of the trail is WOW!

i think the trail we took down is #30?  either way, you turn right at the top of the mountain where the trails intersect.