Taking Photos in the Bend

[cjacob]

Quick question for you DSLR users.

When shooting in the Bend at Sunset/sunrises are you using anyfilters?  What F-Stop are you using? and do you play with the white balance to pull the colors?

I have a MC filter, and a circular polerizer filter. 

[Roy]

Graduated neutral density filters can help even out the contrast between light skies and dark foregrounds.  The link has some pretty good info:

http://www.sicanstudios.com/pages/tutorials/a-guide-to-nd-grads-filters-and-how-to-install-them/

The polarizer can help in several ways, but how much good it does depends on the angle the light is coming from, etc.  Watch what happens in the viewfinder as you rotate it, if it's not helping, or making things worse, take it off.

White balance is a lot easier to get right on the computer than in the camera, so shoot RAW.  Most RAW cionverters have a number of ways to fix WB and remove color casts, but if you get it wrong wtht a JPEG, you're basically SOL.

Hope this helps.

[cjacob]

I plan on shooting in Raw with an instant Jpeg also.  I have not used any software to play with the photos.  I have PS CS sitting here I just have not had the time to install it and learn. 

[tjavery]

Yeh, what Roy said

Your aperture (f-stop) will depend on what you want. If you want maximum depth of field, then go for a smaller aperture (f/11 ~ f/16). If you want the best sharpness you lens can produce, then usually f/8 (give or take one stop) will do. Use a tripod if you can.

Sunrises/sets are technically challenging to photograph. RAW is the best way to do it. Play with the WB when converting the file on your computer.

You can use graduated ND filters as mentioned, and you can also take multiple exposures and blend them later with software. The simplest approach is to shoot one exposure for the sky (sky will look right, foreground will be very dark) and then shoot another exposure for the foreground (foreground will look right, sky will be overexposed).

Sounds like you're asking good questions to learn the craft. Keep at it. Practice, practice, and practice, and don't be afraid to mess around with different settings to see how the affect the resulting photos. Digital is great because you can shoot the same scene several times with different apertures, etc. and are not limited by the number of film rolls that you've carried with you.

[cjacob]

TJ,

I think I on thr right track.

I plan on bracketing all exposures +/- 1.  I have been using f/22 but it sounds like I need to back off some.

I think I have spent way more on all the extra items.  I almost bought a new lens for the trip but did not want the wife to melt down.  As it is, I am keeping the change and using it to save up for other items.  I can fit 129 photos in raw with a large/fine detail jpeg.  So with my 12 g I can get 400ish photos with out down loading.

I have a tripod, I have a wired shutter release.  I am limited in filters right now.  Just the MCD on each lens and once cir/pol. 

So my last question is when doing night star photography and using bulb exposure how long should I allow it to expose, and what f/stop should I use.

So since i have gotten the camera i have about 20 photos I love and like 5000 so so ones.

Next Step is Photo Shop

[tjavery]

There's an optical phenomena called diffraction. There's a proper technical definition for it, but what you need to know is that because of diffraction, you will noticeably lose sharpness at very small apertures (like f/22).

You can test it. Shoot a series of photos at different apertures and compare. You'll start losing sharpness at f/16 (but not too bad) and at f/22 it's really noticeable. (this applies to 35mm format, including DSLRs with APSc sized sensors)

For my landscape photos where I try to get everything in focus, I usually shoot f/11. Sometimes I'll shoot f/8 if there's nothing in the foreground (i.e. all objects in the photo are a good distance away). And sometimes I'll shoot f/16 if there's stuff in the foreground (8 - 10 feet away).

You don't necessarily need to shoot a large JPG along with your RAW, but it's up to you and your preferences. Keep in mind that a small, low quality JPG is imbedded into each RAW file regardless. This helps you to preview the shot later on (and it's what the camera uses when you view on the LCD).

My preferences are to not shoot a JPG along with RAW. If I ever need a JPG, then I can quickly and easily do a conversion on the computer and crank one out.

With digital, you really don't need filters other than a polarizer. Most effects can be done in post processing (e.g. color enhancement, etc.). You can get by without grad. ND as I mentioned before.

The only other filter that you can't fake with digital is a solid ND. One of those will help to slow shutter speeds to get dramatic effects like blurred clouds or blurred moving water.

For star photography, assuming it's a dark, clear, moonless night with the Milky Way in view, here's what I've found works for me:
1)  f/2.0, ISO 1600, 30 seconds (might need some "pushing" when converting from RAW)
2)  f/2.0, ISO 3200, 30 seconds (good exposure)
3)  f/2.0, ISO 6400, 30 seconds (max. exposure, any more will result in highlight blow-out)



You can take those exposures and calculate equivalents based on your equipment capabilities. For example, say you have a lens that is f/2.8 max. Therefore:
1)  f/2.8, ISO 3200, 30 seconds (might need some "pushing" when converting from RAW)
2)  f/2.8, ISO 6400, 30 seconds (good exposure)
3)  f/2.8, ISO 12800, 30 seconds (max. exposure, any more will result in highlight blow-out)

Or, just simply try this: use your fastest lens wide open, your highest ISO, and expose for 30 seconds.

Keep in mind that this advice is for NOT having any noticeable star trails and will work for focal lengths up to about 24mm (full frame equiv.). You'll need to shorten the exposure time for longer focal lengths (e.g. about 15 seconds max. for a 50mm lens).

If you're okay with having star trails, then try longer exposures. I've made good long exposures by using f/4, ISO 200, and 45 minutes (and be sure the long exposure noise reduction is turned ON, and that your battery is fully charged before attempting a long exposure).



It's good to experiment and mess around with settings. Night photography isn't an exact science. Just start with a charged battery and have fun!

[cjacob]

TJ,

I have printed this and thank you for the help. 

Right I using a Olympus e-520

Lens
40-150 f/4-5.6
14-42 f/3.5-5.6

So we shall see.  I will figure out how to post photos here soon. 

Departure is in about 4 hrs. 

[tjavery]

Okay, so try a few at 14mm (28mm equiv. on your camera) wide open (f/3.5) at your highest ISO for 25 or 30 sec. That will get you a non-trailed star pic.

One other tip- focusing can be tricky. If you camera has Live View, then turn it on, zoom in (using the LCD) and point at the brightest star you can find, then carefully focus (manually) on that star. Once you've done this, then keep the focus set there (i.e. keep it on manual focus and don't try to focus again).

[cjacob]

Okay, so try a few at 14mm (28mm equiv. on your camera) wide open (f/3.5) at your highest ISO for 25 or 30 sec. That will get you a non-trailed star pic.

One other tip- focusing can be tricky. If you camera has Live View, then turn it on, zoom in (using the LCD) and point at the brightest star you can find, then carefully focus (manually) on that star. Once you've done this, then keep the focus set there (i.e. keep it on manual focus and don't try to focus again).

TJ Thank You Sooo Much.  I will be in the Chianti Mountains tonight and will give it a try. 

[cjacob]

TJ,

Thank you for the advice.  This trip was very challaging.  I will post a trip Report Shortly.

[badknees]

Okay, so try a few at 14mm (28mm equiv. on your camera) wide open (f/3.5) at your highest ISO for 25 or 30 sec. That will get you a non-trailed star pic.

One other tip- focusing can be tricky. If you camera has Live View, then turn it on, zoom in (using the LCD) and point at the brightest star you can find, then carefully focus (manually) on that star. Once you've done this, then keep the focus set there (i.e. keep it on manual focus and don't try to focus again).

TJ Thank You Sooo Much.  I will be in the Chianti Mountains tonight and will give it a try. 

Sorry can't help myself.......Is this anywhere close to the Merlot Mountains, or Cabernet Canyon??

[tjavery]

TJ,

Thank you for the advice.  This trip was very challaging.  I will post a trip Report Shortly.

Great! I'm looking forward to your pics.

Sorry can't help myself.......Is this anywhere close to the Merlot Mountains, or Cabernet Canyon??

[MilesOfTexas]

(and be sure the long exposure noise reduction is turned ON,...)

I am just curious as to what make of camera you use.  I am shooting with a Canon 50D, and from what I read from Canon and various other sources, the NR doesn't appear to make any difference when shooting RAW.  I haven't shot any star images yet, but plan to soon, so I haven't tested this on my own yet, and just thought I would ask.

[homerboy2u]

I am just curious as to what make of camera you use.

[MilesOfTexas]

I am just curious as to what make of camera you use.

HAHA