70 Hours

[Al]

The filter I used does have such a ziplock baggie.  It wasn't dead animals, crypto, or giardia I was worried about, it was some strange pesticide...or maybe dead animal poop.  But I guess in small doses it won't do too much harm.

Toxicity is a function of dose and drinking a few liters of water from a major river that drains such large areas might even be good for you.  Who knows?  Char yourself up some charcoal and use as a pre- or after filter to remove those types of organic compounds if you are concerned.  Refresh regularly.

To the side, I didn't get sick once while working at a sewage treatment plant even after manually cleaning the grit chamber at the front of the plant with a shovel.  Accordingly, you should take my advice with a grain of salt. 

Chronic exposures  . . .  chronic exposures don't apply.  (When was the last time you drank water from the Rio Grand and when will be the next?!)  Water good.  Water in the desert?  Very Very good!

Al

[randell]

Part V
I awoke bright and early and very refreshed.  The sun had not risen yet but with the nearby mountains it would be a long time before the sun shined on me.  I had hiked 9.6 miles yesterday and I still had close to six miles to go.  With no tent it was faster to break camp.  Though I had originally thought I might stay a third night, I was ready for a break from Marufo.  I was ready for a big, huge, hot meal.  A shower wouldn't hurt either because I was not smelling too fresh. 

I started the climb out of the little valley.  It was definitely not as steep overall as the South Fork but it was still steep.  It still had its steep parts.  At one point I had to get down on all fours to scramble over a rock.  Then I thought I lost the trail and I looked up and saw a cairn.  "You've got to be kidding!  THAT is the trail!", I said out loud.  I reached the main split, then I reached the point where I had gone off trail.  Two more miles to go.  Suddenly one of my hiking poles gave way.  I tried to tighten it but it to no avail.  It would only stick at 2/3 it's length.  My trusty hiking pole of so many years.  My friend Matt had broken one pair last January and now this.  That's the end of the REI Terre Haute.  Onward I went with one long pole and one short pole. 

It was all familiar terrain now and easier.  I finally came to my water cache.  I poured it all out except for one quart to get me to the car.  It made the air smell like rain.  I poured out the rest of the Rio Grande water.  Not that it was bad, but if given a choice, I'll take the water from my local water district.  I made the last steep decline, set out across the wash and was back at the car at 11:00am sharp.  I had done it!


Ok, that doesn't look very excited.  Let's see some John Travolta.  Hell yeah!


I drove to Rio Grande Village and showered.  $1.50 for 5 minutes isn't bad when you smell as aweful as I did.  I was deathly hungry and trying to hold out for lunch at the lodge but that was a long time coming so I ate a pop tart.  I got a permit change to car camp at K-Bar instead of backcountry at Marufo Vega (no charge to change permit).  Then I started up the Basin road.  In the lodge I had a few glasses of glorious iced tea, a huge double meat burger with fries, then the largest platter of ice cream heaven they offered.  Man, I love post-hike chow downs!  I had hiked 20 miles in 46 hours with the equivalent of both of my children on my back.  I had some calories to make up for!

I decided with a few hours to kill I would do some looking around, inspecting the facilities so to speak.  I got a call from Shane to go check out some spot next to Fossil Bone, so I did.  Nothing wrong with a mission.  Then I took Ross Maxwell's swell road.  As my meal sank in I felt better and better. 


I realized I had never done the Burro Mesa Pouroff.  I had been on the little road 11 years ago with a girlfriend who wasn't fond of Big Bend but we had never gotten out of the car.  I chugged on over.  It was getting close to dark so I jogged the .5 mile trail to get there. 


It was very impressive.  I still have the Burro Spring and Top of Burro Mesa Pouroff trails on my to-do list.  However I wanted to watch the sun set over the Chisos so I snapped a few shots, jogged back to the car and took off, but not before one more shot of the burro.


I reached the place I wanted to be just in time...




Now I had to get to K-Bar #2 and set up camp.  Now I had to face the thought in that had been in the back of my mind.  Did I really want to set up camp alone and sit alone staring into the dark all by myself for the next 3-4 hours until I was sleepy enough to go to bed.  Not really.  Of course I didn't want to leave Big Bend.  However, I would not have time to do anything in the morning so what was the point.  Sleeping outside is great but sitting alone in the dark is not so much fun.  I had a long drive home.  I came to the Panther Junction and, sadly, made a left.

But wait...there is one more installment...

[Al]

Randell, no one does it, tells it and photographs it better.  Thanks a lot.

Al

[randell]

Randell, no one does it, tells it and photographs it better.  Thanks a lot.

Al

Well thanks, you making me blush!   

I forgot to mention this, but did you see my gimpy hiking pole in the end of the trail picture?

[Al]

Randell, no one does it, tells it and photographs it better.  Thanks a lot.

Al

Well thanks, you making me blush!   

I forgot to mention this, but did you see my gimpy hiking pole in the end of the trail picture?

Cut it out PLEASE!  You're shaming the rest of us and setting a standard that is hard to beat! 

Al

P.S.  Yup on the hiking poles.  One is all a real man needs!

[randell]

Part VI
I decided I would drive to Sanderson.  I remember VinceT had said there was a cute hotel there that had a snake room.  A few hours later I pulled into Sanderson and upon inspection was shocked to find 4 hotels in Sanderson!  Three local joints and the Budget Inn...yeah, like I'd stay there.  Then I saw the answer - Paddy's Pub.   I pulled over only to disappointingly find out from the proprietor that they were closing for the night.  I had intended to probe the locals for the best accommodations.  My next tactic was to work from one end of town to the other.  I started at the Desert Air.  NO VACANCY.  Man, Sanderson gets some action!  Next up was the Outback Oasis.  They had a vacancy and they had SNAKES! 

I had found it.  The owner asked if I wanted small and frugal or bigger and newly remodeled.  I opted for the bigger.  How much?  $50!  I told the owner I had heard of her snakes.  She offered a tour.  I accepted.  As we turned on the light and I walked in, I heard rattles exploding from all around.  The rattlers were not happy we startled them.  I peered at the different snakes in wonder thinking my 4 year old would dig this.  Off to my room to see what $50 had rented me.  Damn nice, that's what it rented me.  Nice tile floor, tile counter, two tables with chairs, clean linens, fluffy towels, fridge, microwave, cable tv.  It was like a little rustic cabin (I have photos of the room - if any one is interested just PM me). 


The next morning I walked out of my room to find out it was 25 degrees!  Man, glad I didn't have to pack up a tent!  I found breakfast at Mi Tierra, a nice mom and pop place with $2.25 breakfast burritos.  I had a Chorizo and Egg and a Bacon and Egg with some tea and I was on the road. 


I saw 2 cars in the 20 miles to Dryden.  I took a picture of the former Do-Drop-Inn-Cafe.  What's the country song that was mentioned in?  The singer gets in a fight with some bikers, claims one of them is a commie, then tries to run them over...


Another abandoned building in Dryden.


Old highway 90/new highway 90.


My goal now was to get to Judge Roy Bean's Museum.  I had always wanted to drop in for a visit.  It was a right nifty travel stop.  Lots of information and history.  I recommend it.


Back on Highway 90, it was time to inspect the Pecos River Bridge.  The water was looking mighty fine.


Looking in the other direction.


Gimmie some John Travolta!


Now I was off to Highway 163.  I am a sucker for driving on a road I have never been on.  I saw that the Devil's River crossed this particular road four times.  If you have never been to the Devil's River State Natural Area, you are missing out!  This side-trip would add time to my drive but I figured the honor of driving on another lesser-known Texas road was worth it.  It was.

The odd thing about this road is that there were several dry crossings with "watch for water" signs on the road.  But the crossings with water actually flowing over the road had no such signs.  Very odd.  Anyway, I took the liberty of taking photos of each of the four crossings:

Baker's Crossing (very nice, as cjacob said)


Virgil Crossing


Burnt Crossing looking East


and looking West


Juno Crossing looking East


and looking West


I joined I10 in Ozona and sped on my way back to Houston.  It had been a great trip.  Hope you enjoyed the story.  Oh yeah, and here's an armadillo I saw.  I can never get a good picture of an armadillo!@!@!


Now it's back to my cubicle...like a caged animal...patiently waiting for the next time I'm let out to play.  In the meantime, I'm shopping for more hiking poles.

[KDann]

Great trip report, loved the pictures! Can't wait to get back to Big Bend. Btw, I am planning on buying a DSLR soon. Can't really decide between the D80, or the Canon 30D...

[toejam]

I don't know if I ever read a better trip report. Well done!

[cjacob]

Baker's Crossing (very nice, as cjacob said)

I LOVE that crossing.  I grew up with a couple of the Baker Kids.  I love to drive that Route.   The Road from Comstoct to Pandale is also a great drive.

[jr ranger]

Very impressive, Randell. I have to say those Travolta moves are pretty nifty too. I just have one question, did you poop alot?  

 BTW, I love the new avatar there Sir/Lady/Son/Daughter/Kid Ranger?

Whoa there big fella! Seems to me you've been sippin on some fine tequila along with the beer? Perhaps mushrooms along with the popcorn? (j/k)  Glad you like it!    

[JimNewOrleans]

I saw 2 cars in the 20 miles to Dryden.  I took a picture of the former Do-Drop-Inn-Cafe.  What's the country song that was mentioned in?  The singer gets in a fight with some bikers, claims one of them is a commie, then tries to run them over...

        .....  Charlie Daniels Band, Uneasy Rider....    Not necessarily proud that I know that, but there you have it....
Anyway, love the 9:45 pm picture of your Valley of the Hole  - great exposure.   No star trails, so guess it was less than a 50 or 60 second exposure?

[randell]

I saw 2 cars in the 20 miles to Dryden.  I took a picture of the former Do-Drop-Inn-Cafe.  What's the country song that was mentioned in?  The singer gets in a fight with some bikers, claims one of them is a commie, then tries to run them over...

        .....  Charlie Daniels Band, Uneasy Rider....    Not necessarily proud that I know that, but there you have it....
Anyway, love the 9:45 pm picture of your Valley of the Hole  - great exposure.   No star trails, so guess it was less than a 50 or 60 second exposure?

That's the song!  No star trails.  Moon was too full to get that long of an exposure, it was only a 30 second exposure.

[jeffblaylock]

No star trails.  Moon was too full to get that long of an exposure, it was only a 30 second exposure.

Nice! Now you're blaming your 30-second exposure cap on the moon!  At least the remote control self-timer thingy wasn't adversely affected by global warming (unlike your trekking pole).

Seriously though, great report and photos. A new standard has been set. 

[RichardM]

What, no bears?

[sleepy]

What, no bears?

or panthers?

excellent excellent trip.  chock full of adventure and beauty.  thanks for sharing.  you done good.