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Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08

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Offline mule ears

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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #15 on: December 28, 2008, 04:19:50 PM »
Quote
Good trip report Mule Ears, thanks for posting  :high5: :eusa_clap:. It seemed like there were several cairned trails criss-crossing the area that were not marked on the map and it was a bit unnerving. Do you have any pictures of the rockshelters?  Was there any evidence of illegal alien trash? TWWG

Thanks TWWG,
I thought you'd like the picture of the big cairn.

Not a great picture but here it is. We saw three shelters, looking down canyon these two are below the damn on the right side. We checked out the one above the dam on the left side. We saw no signs of trash but there was a bed made of grasses or something that looked not too old.


The trail we headed down is clearly used more often now. It comes up from the dead end dirt road that comes from the airport direction. My guess is either the park service or the border patrol is using it these days.
« Last Edit: December 28, 2008, 04:23:23 PM by mule ears »
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Offline homerboy2u

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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #16 on: December 28, 2008, 10:40:41 PM »
So far it is a great trip report,ME. I like the idea that you took some time apart just to gather information on the water resources. I do not think i have ever read a report,specifically covering that.

  This one i am enjoying it with some Menudo and lemonade here...Bravo !!! :eusa_clap:
Stay thirsty, my friends.

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Offline mule ears

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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #17 on: December 29, 2008, 07:44:46 AM »
Day Four:
The clouds moved in an out all night and at one point I thought it might actually rain but then it cleared off. Orion marched across the sky.


We awoke to another fine sunrise and the temperature had finally decided to drop to 37 degrees.


The packs were heavy once again but only around 34 pounds now with just 6 qts. of water and 3 ? days food. ML sherpa’d the now light cache bucket the short distance to where we crossed the Old Maverick road. We hid it there to reduce the amount of driving we would have to do to retrieve it after the trip.


We cut through the low hills that separate Terlingua creek from the Old Maverick Rd. and bee lined for another wash cutting through the hills NW of Willow Mtn. For the next four days as we would turn around, we would almost always see the familiar sight of the Y of the mouth of Santa Elena, reminding us of where we had come from.


The low divide over into the Alamo creek drainage gave us the first real view of the days work, getting to Bee Mtn., then the Chimneys at the base of Kit Mtn. As had been the case from the end of the first day, there stood the Chisos, with Emory standing high. I had a similar thought during the eastern half trip, that it was like the Wizard of Oz and we were headed towards the Emerald City.


To actually get to the wide gravely wash of Alamo Creek we had to find our way through the thick grass and deep cuts in the silt alluvium that had built up at the mouth of the side washes. At one point the main channel here was over my head and I worried that snakes were surely in the grass.


Finally we popped out into the super highway of the wash and were startled to find a power line, running to Castolon I assume. Shortly downstream where the hills constrict at the end of Willow Mtn. (Willow is one of the two tent shaped peaks) is where Gomez spring used to be, we searched around some and found no evidence of it.


Instead of going up the big wash that comes in just below where the spring is marked on the map we decided to go up the next wash down which runs east of pts. 2511 and 2534. This would put us on a direct line with our next spring to check out, Pena, on the Chimneys trail. It was getting hot again and the gnats returned in places. Once we popped out onto the big flats a small breeze would appear from time to time and chase them away. We could finally see the Chimneys in the distance.


We hit the Chimneys trail but east of the Pena spring so we walked the half mile or so back down to it so we could see if it was running, it was but slowly. It is in a small ravine and there was no evidence it was there until you are right on top of it. A break in the shade and then back on up towards the Chimneys.

Before we would get to the Chimneys and the end of the day we had to make a detour. We jumped off the Chimneys trail and dropped south into the big wash that runs around the north side of Bee Mtn. we then took a left up the wash that runs NE directly towards the Chimneys. Here was Bee spring and it was running nicely for some distance. As happens just above these springs the vegetation gets so thick you can’t stay in the wash. We climbed back up onto the flats and walked the wash rim all the way to the Chimneys looking for signs of Chimneys spring. Finally we see an old dam and signs that there used to be a spring, but no water now.

We are tired and climb up to a nice campsite just south of the lone south Chimney. Just enough daylight left to explore it, look at the rock shelters and petroglyphs and think about the people who used to frequent this place.




Back to camp and a well deserved rest and dinner. At least 12 miles today. It is really warm and a warm breeze blows down off the Chisos. The best sunset of the trip unfolded over 45 minutes, I took many pictures thinking "this has to be the last great light!". Finally we call it a night, still 69 degrees at 9:00!


day4route.jpg
« Last Edit: December 14, 2009, 12:13:41 PM by RichardM »
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Offline Lorax

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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #18 on: December 29, 2008, 11:09:00 AM »
This is a great trip report.  I fell like I there with all the work.  But without the sights, smells, and feeling of being in Big Bend.

Thanks,
Ted

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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #19 on: December 30, 2008, 08:02:43 AM »
Day Five:
With nearly 13 hours of total darkness every night, lying in the sleeping bag gets old after a while. It makes getting up and getting on the trail easier especially when the low is only 44 degrees.


The original grand plan for today was to make a huge swing and try and catch all of the springs south of Burro Mesa on the way to Mule Ears. After days of cross country work and with a huge day looming tomorrow we decided to amend that plan and just day hike out to Red Ass spring and back and then head over to Mule Ears. That would eliminate the two springs NE of Red Ass, Tule, Burro and Wasp springs. The later three I can easily catch at another time and this route would require a huge amount of across wash walking which gets really old, really fast. The first rays of sun hit Bee Mtn. and the mouth of Santa Elena as we head out.


The roughly mile and a half to the springs was straight forward as you can see the giant cottonwood from the side of the Chimneys. In and out of 3 washes brings you to a huge spring area. It runs from a fairly large cottonwood on the eastern (up wash) end,


past the stone corral


to the old giant tree on the western end. With three to five actual seeps from the northern side of the wash there is a lot of vegetation stretched out along the rim of the wash and by the time the seeps all combine there is quite a bit of water in places. It is an unusual spring, to me, in that it really comes from the side of the wash nearer the rim than surfacing in the bottom over some harder rock layer.

The old cottonwood tree is listed as the National Champion Populus fremontii subspecies mesetae; in 2005 it was remeasured and determined that it was actually 49 feet high, 84 feet crown spread, and 211 inch circumference (17.6 feet). It is in bad shape as you can see with a lot of its top broken out and shelf fungi growing on the trunk but it does grow right on top of the spring as water was visible underneath its roots just a few feet down wash.


Glad we made the side trip, we headed back to the packs and on east. Now if one was really doing an across the park hike you would hike out the Chimneys trail and up the Blue Creek wash and then either east across the Dodson or up Blue Creek canyon and over the mountains. I decided to add another day and throw a small detour in to Mule Ears spring.

We follow the washes up along the base of Kit Mtn. to a divide where the RMSD drops down to the Blue Creek wash at the base of Goat Mtn.


We turn the corner and see the tips of the Mule Ears, the saddle we have to cross between Goat and Trap mountains and the road.


Into our fifth day and we still have not seen anyone else, would we make the road crossing without seeing a car? Down the steep embankment and the Blue Creek wash and we cross the road right where we had dropped some water and then quickly over the low hills and down into the wash leading up to the saddle. As we were headed up over the hills a truck drives by with tinted windows, our backs to him, we didn’t see anyone. :icon_wink:

It is beginning to heat up again and we find some shade for lunch along the wash under some wildly eroded clays.


The wash walk to the saddle is one of the few that I have done where you are able to walk right to the top and never be forced out by vegetation, easy. On down the other side and into the wash for Trap spring. I know we are getting close to the Mule Ears spring trail and assume Trap spring is dry when we come to a double drop down/pour off at the head of the spring. A beautiful spring in this shallow (maybe 40 feet deep) and narrow canyon that runs for over a quarter mile. We look very carefully at the tracks in the wet sands and only see sign of javelina and some deer, no mountain lions, too bad.


We soon come to the Mule Ears spring trail and take a rest in the shade. Along come two day hikers and our no-people streak is certainly over now. We head on up the trail towards the spring and pass two more day hikers coming out. The familiar view of the spring site, at the mouth of the little canyon comes into sight.


We stop to fill up with water for tonight and tomorrow morning and yet another day hiker comes in. Five humans in 30 minutes after nearly 100 hours of no one but us. Oh well, the spring is running so well you can hear it from a distance! Several large pools with frogs and fish, it is soothing.

Our goal for the day is the grand overlook of the Smoky Creek plain and we make fast time over to it, pausing at the route we would take out the next morning. Looking up at the Chisos and the SW Rim, it will be a long day to get up there by tomorrow evening.


We get to where the trail starts its drop down the escarpment and head west up the rim towards the Mule Ears and find a great campsite where 3200 is marked on the topo. An amazing view as always and the Mule Ears are casting their long shadows over the plain. This has to be one of the top ten campsites I have ever enjoyed!


Another great day, 7-8 miles today with packs, 3 more without. We sit and soak in the great views, again a fine sunset and another warm night. We know tomorrow is the big day, 13-14 miles with 4000 feet of elevation gain. We sleep like babys.


day5&6route.jpg
« Last Edit: December 14, 2009, 12:12:05 PM by RichardM »
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Offline lighter fluid

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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #20 on: December 30, 2008, 09:07:27 AM »
Fantastic photos and trip report, Mule Ears!
I look forward to the rest of it.  :eusa_clap:
"...There is a pessimism about land which, after it has been with you a long time, becomes merely factual. Men increase; country suffers. " John Graves 'Goodbye to a River'

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Offline badknees

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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #21 on: December 30, 2008, 11:34:22 AM »
Superb trip report, photos and as usual, you have taken it up a notch. Thanks for all the good info.
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Offline Robert

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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #22 on: December 30, 2008, 11:53:29 AM »
Was wondering if you took a peak at Wasp Spring? Since you didn't mention it I'm guessing that there isn't much to see.

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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #23 on: December 30, 2008, 03:39:07 PM »
Was wondering if you took a peak at Wasp Spring? Since you didn't mention it I'm guessing that there isn't much to see.

We passed it by mostly because I had heard that it hasn't really flowed for a long time. It would be quick and easy to check out from the road.
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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #24 on: December 30, 2008, 06:46:18 PM »
Great report, thanks nothing better than living in big bend through your report.  :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap:
Visiting BB since 1966, nothing like being lost and finding heaven.

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Offline mule ears

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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #25 on: December 31, 2008, 08:16:02 AM »
Day Six:
Only 53 degrees as a low! Unbelievable in late December. This does not bode well for the highs for the day as we will be working hard on the climb to the SW rim.


We try to get out of camp early but only manage 8:20. This grand campsite is just too enjoyable to sprint away from with nearly 360 degree views.


Back west down the Mule Ears trail a short distance to the wash that heads north towards Goat Mtn. and shows on the topo map as the old connector trail from Smoky Creek to Mule Ears. A few weeks earlier Ay Chi and Jeff Blaylock had come down this same wash on the way out from their great trip from the Basin via Dominquez spring to the Mule Ears overlook. We saw only two sets of footprints in the sand, heading down wash.


We topped the low divide and there crisply in front of us were our immediate and final goals for the day. On the left in the shadows was the wash/canyon that we would follow east of Goat Mtn. almost all the way to the Homer Wilson ranch house. In those shadows would be two more springs to examine. High in the middle right was the SW Rim where we had reserved SW3 for the night. Better keep moving.


Fairly quickly we are in the main wash, of the three to choose from, and as the canyon narrows there is evidence that water had been flowing not too long ago but it was still some distance to the double pour off where Mesa Bonita spring is. The lower level pour off is a band of conglomerate that the spring drips off of, the upper level dry pour off appears to be volcanic and much harder.


Cool in the shade, we rest for a bit before making the scramble/climb around it on the left side. We walk back down to the lip of the upper pour off where you can see the tips of the Mule Ears in the distance.


Not too far above the pour offs is Goat Mtn. spring marked by a short dam from the ranching days. It flows across the hard rock for maybe 100 yds. before disappearing.
The narrow canyon here has great rock layers some with many crystals and others a very dark purple. We come out into the upper parts of the drainage and the hills begin to get lower and the shade goes away. One more break in the last shade and we make the push towards Homer Wilson and our water cache.

The wash finally gets choked with vegetation and we climb up the ridge on the left, very near the top and there is Carousel Mtn. and the ranch house but still a mile away. We head out on a direct line over the undulating hills and washes but the grasses here are different with very sharp spiny seeds that go right through the socks. We stop in the wash that eventually goes east of Carousel Mtn., clean the socks and decide to take this wash up to the Dodson trail and avoid this vicious grass.

We hit the Dodson trail and know that our cross country work is all done for this trip. From here on in, the trails will seem like super highways compared to what we have walked that last six days. It is getting hot now and we make it to the shade of the ranch house porch at 12:30 for lunch. 77 degrees in the shade.


Amazingly we are there for an hour including going over to the cache box to retrieve our water (5 qts. each) and see no one. We force ourselves to pack up and march out into the heat for the long slog up Blue Creek. This is the third time, over the years, that I have walked up Blue Creek and it quickly comes to me what a pain in the @$$ it is, even with the packs at only 25 pounds. We reach the first shade behind the red rocks and the weather station on the side of my pack reads 93 degrees! I think that in reality the high for the day is more in the upper 80’s.


Slowly we climb until we make the cool of the live oaks in the canyon bottom. By 4:00 we are at the base of the big climb to Laguna Meadows and a miracle occurs as it clouds over a bit and the breeze picks up, making the last push more bearable.


It is still a long climb, switch backed nicely at first and then more steep at the end. A 1000’ in a little over a mile, we reach the trail jct. about 5:30. A short rest but we want to get to SW3 for the sunset if possible. Quickly on around the head of Blue Creek canyon and past the Colima cutover trail. As we turn the corner and go east of pt. 7395 and away from the Rim, we see the last rays of the sun on Emory Peak.


We hurry now down the darkening trail towards the metal sign marking the entrance to SW3. At 6:10 we round the corner and climb the short trail and the sunset is at peak! We made it! 13-14 miles today and 4000’ of climbing.


Tired but happy with the day, we settle in for a big meal, enjoyed with the company of the small herd of Sierra del Carmen whitetails that must be permanent residents at SW3. As I fall asleep, I think the mountain lions must have it easy here as we hear the deer walking around the campsite all night.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2008, 03:29:45 PM by mule ears »
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Offline Drifter

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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #26 on: December 31, 2008, 10:07:50 AM »
Goodmorning Mule Ear,  Great report and photos.  Your route will fill in many happy hours at the house going over maps and photos of my own.  Thank you .  Could you share your equipment list that allows you to carry as much water as you did and still keep your pack at such low weights. In the past I have not been able to keep the weight down as you have but I usually carry a one man tent and start off with an old Dana design pack that starts at 7 pounds.  Since my last back surgery the only way I can even consider multiple day trips again is to lose pack weight to go along with my body weight loss.  Thanks again. drifter
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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #27 on: December 31, 2008, 10:14:03 AM »
Goodmorning Mule Ear,  Great report and photos.  Your route will fill in many happy hours at the house going over maps and photos of my own.  Thank you .  Could you share your equipment list that allows you to carry as much water as you did and still keep your pack at such low weights. In the past I have not been able to keep the weight down as you have but I usually carry a one man tent and start off with an old Dana design pack that starts at 7 pounds.  Since my last back surgery the only way I can even consider multiple day trips again is to lose pack weight to go along with my body weight loss.  Thanks again. drifter

Drifter it is good to hear from you again and to know that you are thinking about more trips! Sorry to hear about the back surgery. I will wrap up the report with some closing thoughts on trip planning and an equipment list, as the light packs did make the trip much more possible and enjoyable. Thanks, Mule Ears
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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #28 on: January 01, 2009, 07:37:11 AM »
Happy New Year, here's to a good 2009

Day seven, the Victory lap:

Welcome to winter as today is the winter solstice, 44 degrees at 7200’. The deer are still walking all around us as we eat breakfast.


Everyone had said that it could be really windy at this campsite but this night and morning it was very still. We chose the SW3 site as it is the only one that actually has a view from the rim. As we had our second hot drink out on the “front porch” of slab rocks, a few feet from our sleeping bags, we indeed could see our entire trip laid out below us. It was a high overcast and the first rays of the sun nearly perfectly illuminated where we had been the last six days.

There was the MDA with the mouth of Santa Elena Canyon, Canyon Flag and pt. 3719, Bruja canyon and in the shadows the end near Dam tinaja where we had descended. Sierra Aguja stood out clearly and there were the hills around Terlingua Abajo. Willow Mtn. and further up, the Chimneys coming out of the shadow of Kit Mtn. standing clear on the broad alluvial flats.


We turn our heads just a bit east and you can see the Mule Ears and part of the route up past Goat Mtn., hard to imagine we were down there yesterday morning.


We lingered a bit later in camp as we had a short day today but it would be a good one. The packs now only weighed about 16 pounds so it would be a leisurely stroll around the Rims and down to the Basin. My pack and T-shirt were encrusted with salt from the previous hot days but today would be pleasant.


We finally headed off and got to the top of the south rim about 10:00 and ran into our first people since Mule Ears spring two days ago. Amazing that, with the exception of the 30 minutes near the spring, we had gone nearly six full days and not seen a soul. They took our picture standing on the edge. I’m like TWWG, you can never really ID me from the picture.


From the South Rim we were amazed at the amount of water you could see running in the washes way down below, Fresno, Dodson and others too. On around the SE Rim (I think sleepy might be right about SE3 and the great views from near by) and all the way down to the NE4 campsite (empty) and out to the very point. I had hoped to be able to see the route of my eastern half trip from Boquillas to the Basin but Crown Mtn. blocked most of that view. Great view all the same.


Along the NE rim and down into Boot canyon, good water in all the pools but none from the pipe at the spring itself. The classic view of the Boot as we cruise around the shoulder of Emory Peak.


We reach the side trail to Emory peak and there is a large group eating lunch, just having come down. Up to this point we had only seen two other groups. We stash the packs and head up the trail and the clouds begin to move off. Up to the top and there are quite a few people up there. We climb up and quietly eat our lunch while taking in the views of the park, especially where we had been all week.


It was time to finish up and we wasted no time rolling down to the packs and on down the Pinnacles trail to the Basin, taking one break along the way. Back to the car by 3:00, the trip was done. 9 miles today plus the 2 or so round trip up Emory Peak. We procured a few celebratory beers and headed down to PJ to turn in our permit and get gas ($2.00/gal.). A very pleasant rangeress took our permit and wrote down our spring reports on a scrap of cash register tape.

We had heard that a major weather change was coming in today and by the time we got down to PJ the wind was kicking and the temps dropping fast. We still had to drive all the way down to TA to retrieve our cache bucket and empty water container at Homer Wilson. The incoming front had blown the air clean and the late afternoon light was beautiful. We got one last good look at the point over Santa Elena as the sun was setting behind it.


When we stopped at Homer Wilson to get our empty water container it was already gone, thank you park staff! Off to Study Butte and the Chisos Mining Co. motel and a much needed hot shower! Much refreshed (and less gamey) we headed on over to La Kiva for a great chicken fried steak and maybe too many beers.

The next morning when we walked outside we were greeted with this view of the Chisos. Wow, glad we got off the mountain yesterday, maybe all the hot clear weather wasn’t so bad after all.


Great breakfast at Kathy’s Kosmic Kowgirl Kafe, in the new heated bus/room as it was cold and windy outside. Back to the room to pack up and begin the long trek to San Antonio. We made a stop at PJ to pick up a few books and some maps for the next adventure. On the way the light got wilder and wilder over the Chisos.


Lunch in Fort Stockton and on into SA by 5:00 (forgot about how bad the traffic is in SA). A quiet night in the motel, up early to return the rental car at 5:30 to make 6:30 flights. Home to the farm by 3:00. Wow had this past week just happened? What a great trip, hiking partner, trip planning and logistics. It couldn’t have gone better (maybe 15 degrees cooler) and now there must be another trip.
« Last Edit: January 14, 2014, 01:10:12 PM by mule ears »
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Offline badknees

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Re: Lajitas to the Basin 12/15-12/21/08
« Reply #29 on: January 01, 2009, 09:12:13 AM »
Great trip and nicely documented. Thanks.

Did you record any GPS tracks? That would be interesting if you could post. Just a thought.
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