Eventually we started hiking along the rim towards another viewpoint we had spotted on the topo map. We scared up the Aoudad again. We were certain it was the same herd. They had two babies with them.
We made the viewpoint at llam and once again sat down and ate a snack and soaked in the views. Groups of birds kept flying silently and quickly just over our head and sometimes between us. We even spotted one of the floating on the thermals just below us in the canyon which was fascinating. We spotted a huge boulder on the Mexican side of the canyon that looked like it was near falling.
After a while we packed up and started hiking. We now needed water. We had started with close to two gallons but were nearly out. Our goal was to get to Tinaja de la Verga several miles across rough country. As we went up and over wash after wash we found a sizeable waterhole before the tinaja each got a gallon and ate lunch. We spotted a roadrunner nearby who was hunting bugs. We got the topo map out and decided to go check out Tinaja de la Verga (I did not name it) for the fun of it.
it looks small but there was about 15 gallons here
Shortly after getting water we saw the Auoudad herd again.
We reached the tinaja at 2:20pm and dropped our packs to hike down the canyon to the tinaja. There was lot of small waterholes along the way. The tinaja itself was at the bottom of a 10+ foot drop off. It would have required a rope to belay down to get close enough to get water. It was a good thing we had found water elsewhere as we were not prepared for that level of effort. It may be possible to get closer from another side canyon but we didn't need to so we did not try.
The photos is deceptive in that it makes the tinaja look accessible but it is not possible to get down from this access point w/o ropes.
After visiting the tinaja we decided to head back towards the sinkhole and the trail. We had had enough of off-trail hiking. Following many more washes we located the trail and it was heaven to be on a flat trail once more.
Three sisters
We made it to the sinkhole and rested for a while before putting our headlamps on and climbing into the hole. There was a hole off to one side that was jar shaped and about 10 feet deep. Off to another side was a crawlspace that led to a larger chamber. However, neither of us wanted to squeeze on our stomachs into that chamber so we climbed back out and retrieved out packs.
We were now in search of a campsite. We had spotted a campsite the previous day just past the Three Sisters. We reached the site at 3pm and were delighted to have a few hours to relax and watch the desert while eating and drinking. We took our boots off and let our feet air out while we stared at the bizarre landscape before us. We watched the colors and shadows build as the sun eased towards the distant mountaintops and finally vanished. The stars appeared one by one. The temperature dropped quickly once the sun set and we wandered into our tents for a long nights rest. We had hiked 9.8 miles today.
I woke up at 2am and lay in my tent watching the stars. A falling star fell above me and the trail lingered for several moments after. Seeing a falling star completes a backpacking trip in Big Bend. I dozed off as the moon rose and shone like a flashlight lighting up the octillo, stool, lechuguilla, and prickly pear all around.
Sunday, Feb 7We woke up at dawn again and watched the sun rise as we ate breakfast and took in our final light show of the backpacking trip. The bubbles came out for a final time.
You can see the wall of Santa Elena Canyon lit by the sun to the upper right of the center of the photo
Cat in the hat again
Me blowing bubbles while Matt tries to catch them
The mysterious bubbling lechuguilla
Damage from catclaw - lots of this on the trail
We hit the trail at 9am bound for the trailhead, a hot shower, and a cold beer on the front porch in the ghost town.
Hiking was easy on the established trail. When we got to the Tinaja Blanca area I got another liter of water and ate lunch. We were in very good moods after accomplishing our goal of reaching the mouth of the canyon and being back on the main trail.
Really tall yucca - Matt poses for comparison
I am at the base of the large rock outcropping
Looking up the saddle. Matt is in the photo if you can find him
Back at the park boundary
We reached the trailhead at 1pm and the total mileage for the hike was 30 miles.
Back at the El Dorado we got our rooms and showered then began phase two of the trip: the Terlingua Ghost Town Celebratory Pub Crawl and Superbowl Festival. We started at the High Sierra Bar and had a beer. Then were off to the Ghost Town Caf? for some chili. Next up was the Front Porch for a beer. Then to the Boathouse for a beer. We decided we would watch the Superbowl here as they had a big screen and a nice view of the Chisos. We had just enough time to visit La Kiva for a beer. We got back to the boathouse were we watched the first half of the game before heading to the Starlight for a beer and Antelope Fried Steak. Then it was back to the Boathouse to finish off the game. Finally we went back to the High Sierra Bar to finish off the night.
High Sierra - first celebratory drink
Front Porch
Boathouse
La Kiva
Superbowl at the Boathouse: big screen in front, Mule Ears in back
Monday, Feb 8At 7am we met at the car and were on the road home. We saw two coyotes on the way out of Study Butte and about six Turkey as we neared Alpine. This trip had been full of wildlife sightings. We stopped in Alpine for gas and did not stop again until Kerrville. We did not stop again until we got to Matt’s house. I got home at 5:20pm.
